Friday, November 07, 2008

The Netherlands: Den Bosch


If you've ever tried to throw a pot on a spinning wheel, you'll likely agree that it's harder than it looks.

After a few days in Amsterdam Zach and I hopped a 60-minute train ride to 'S-Hertogenbosch (aka Den Bosch), where Zach and his brother Matt have been working at resident artists at the European Ceramics Work Center (EKWC) since early September. I squeezed my bags into their tiny apartment spent several days exploring this quaint historic town. Little-known outside of the Netherlands, Den Bosch is where the Dutch go on holiday. I don't think we encountered any other American tourists during my visit.

U.S. Election Day took place while I was in Den Bosch. American politics filled newspapers and was the primary topic of discussion around the dinner table and in the pubs. It seems that Europe overwhelmingly supports Obama, and the Dutch in Den Bosch were happy to discuss their hopes for our next President. Everyone wanted to know that I voted, and some said they would stay up all night to follow the election returns – which is more enthusiasm than I could muster! Wednesday morning at least half dozen EKWC staff and participants congratulated us on our new President, and we were able to watch Obama's victory speech on YouTube shortly after it aired. I certainly don't feel like I missed anything!

(Photos)

My visit to Den Bosch was mostly unstructured, which was great. While Zach and Matt worked in their studio I was free to watch them “create”, read, work online (when I could get online) or hang out in the big communal kitchen. We spent several hours each day out in town at one of the great little taverns, bakeries or restaurants, or just out exploring. At one point the guys set me up with some clay and a potter's wheel where I managed to make a few big sloppy piles of mud!

What to Do (for FREE!)
  • Sint Jan Cathedral. Founded in 1185 AD, a Norman style tower built in 1220 AD and an intricate Gothic cathedral started in 1366 AD are open to visitors daily (outside of service hours) from 8 AM to 5 PM. A small donation is requested to help with the ongoing restoration projects. Don't miss the magnificent pipe organ over the entry doors dating from 1617 AD, colorful vault paintings, and glittering stained glass windows.
  • The Citadel. One of the oldest structures in Den Bosch, the Citadel is now home to the Historical Information Centre of Brabant. Constructed in the northwest corner of the fortified city in 1637, the Citadel is a pentagonal entrenchment with bastions. The largest remaining structures at the Citadel were constructed in 1789 as a detention center for military criminals. The main building was drastically redesigned in 1848 for use as military barracks. In the 1980s the grounds and buildings were restored to their 1745 state for use by the Historical Information Centre.
  • Open market in town square. Different days of the week bring out different vendors. I missed the weekend produce market but was there for the textiles market, offering bolts of cloth and sewing supplies to every kind of finished garment, shoes, handbags,etc.
Where to Eat/Drink
  • Dinner was in the communal kitchen at the EKWC (not open for tourists -- sorry!) Residency participants took turns making dinner for the whole crew, with everyone helping out. We enjoyed a pasta dinner, trout en papillote, and a fantastic Indonesian meal during my three night visit.
  • After dinner we went out to the Palm Tavern a few times. The proprietor is friendly, the beer selection extensive, and it is definitely a hangout for the locals. (Actually, I think the whole town is a hangout for locals...)
  • For brunch each day we stopped for a koffie (coffee) and pastry at one of several different bakery/cafes. I think we visited three or four... each was lovely and comfortable to sit sip and savor.
Notes about dining out in the Netherlands: Expect the pastries to be fresh and “coffee” to be a espresso with bit of hot water. Chocolate (in some form) is available with every meal, including sprinkles for your toast. Eggs are not a typical breakfast food, except for tourists. Water is only available from a bottle and costs the same as other soft drinks. You won't be brought a bill until you ask for it, and tipping is not expected.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Your "piles of mud" were excellent...many have built a career on less.