Adventures near Arequipa, Perú

We've been on a handful of weekend "adventure" trips not too far from my current home-base in Arequipa. This post covers everything prior to the May 7 - 15 adventure week coming up at the end of my GVI journey.

Mountain biking down Chachani. On our first Saturday in Peru, I went with Aaron, Maya and Aviv to a nearby mountain called Chachani and rode bicycles down mostly dirt tracks from 4875 M to the city at 2600 M; over 50 KM. The scenery was spectacular. I had a fantastic time riding VERY fast downhill. I picked up a few bumps and bruises along the way, but that's to be expected. Maya and Aviv gave up the struggle early on, put their bikes back on the van and rode the rest of the way down with the bikes on top of the van. Crazy chicas :) Once we got back onto pavement, I rode in front of Aaron and the guide. The road was twisty and smooth and made me wish I had my motorcycle. The guide said we were traveling at 50 KPH most of the way. It was GREAT!

(Link to pics from the Chachani bike trip)

Trekking in Colca Canyon. This 3-day trip took me and 16 other "voluntourists" and our 2 guides all the way down into the largest canyon in the world, then back up again. Our giant group walked most of the way down the first day and slept at a little rustic hostel. In the morning we trekked all the way down for lunch at a little oasis near the river, then the group hiked the way back up 1000 M for a night in Cabanaconde. I hired a mule for the ride back up to the top (well, why not..?) while the others slogged up in the rain. On the third day we goofed around Cabanaconde for a bit before heading to Chivay for a huge buffet lunch, then took the bus back to Arequipa. One highlight from the trip was a peek at some wild condors circling in the valley. (I saw a few up close at the Condor Park in Otavalo.)

This was the most "guided tour"-feeling weekend in all my time with GVI. Because the group was so huge, it was a little hard for me to enjoy the trip (aside from all the rain, I suppose.) Yes, the canyon was gorgeous. The trek wasn't really difficult. The hostels were comfortable. Nonetheless the trip was primarily centered on waiting for others or catching up with others, and it was tough to "be in the moment." Some of the pictures turned out nice, though...

(Link to pics from Colca Canyon trip)

Scenic drive to Salinas Lagoon. Last weekend we took a day-trip to Salinas Lagoon, a salt/borax lake at 4000 M and home to flamingos and other wildlife. The weather was perfect and the views along the very bumpy off-road drive were spectacular. We visited a handful of quaint little pueblos along the way and stopped several times for photos. My highlight for this trip was a visit to a llama farm, where we were followed around by some very tame young llamas out in their pasture.

(Link to pics from Salinas Lagoon trip)

NEXT: More about the GVI school at Sachaca.

Arequipa, Perú: First Impressions

I'm now enjoying the last country of my six-month Global Vision International (GVI) tour of Latin America. Arequipa, Perú is the furthest south I've even been. We're at an altitude of 2600 M, a little lower than my previous stay in Otavalo Ecuador. Unlike my other homestays, this time I'll be living in a hotel room at Casa de Avila during my six-week stay in town. I take my meals at the hotel, and also have access to the house kitchen to prepare my own food if I choose. The Casa is central to all GVI activities in Arequipa; the Project Manager Carla lives here as well, our spanish lessons are held in the courtyard, the GVI room (for supplies and lesson planning) is here, and all the other volunteers meet here for a ride up to the communities each morning. It's a very comfortable and convenient place to live. There's even a giant tortoise to keep us company in the courtyard.

(Link to pics of the hotel and around town)

Aaron, Maya, Aviv and I spent our first week here in Spanish lessons and then the others left for Chivay, where they will work for the rest of their time in Perú. I've opted to remain in Arequipa and work at a community near town called Sachaca. GVI supports two schools in that community; I'm working at the one called Maldonado. (More about the school i n a later post.) Our foursome will be reunited for each of our adventure trips, including the final week with Machu Pichu and the Nazca lines. Though we're working in different cities for now, it isn't "good-bye" for us quite yet.

We had an opportunity to explore a bit around town before beginning work up at the schools. The most interesting sight so far was the Santa Catalina convent. Founded in 1579, the convent has been home to cloistered nuns continuously through its 430-year history, including 25 who live there today. This "city within a city" was restored in the mid-20th century and portions were opened to the public in 1970. Entrance to the convent is ~$10/US, plus an optional additional ~$10/US for a bilingual guide. Plan for at least 2 hours. www.santacatalina.org.pe

(Link to pics of the convent)

COMING SOON: Chachani bike trip, Colca Canyon trip, and more about the GVI school at Sachaca.

Exploring Otavalo: A Bit Further from Town

Part 3 of 3

Fuya Fuya and Lagunas de Mojanda

One of our first adventures outside of Otavalo was to climb Mt. Fuya Fuya (4263 m), which means "cloudy cloudy." Eleven of us headed out for a guided day trip to the top of this nearby mountain, considered a "starter" mountain for those interested in scaling the higher nearby peaks such as Imbabaya or Cotapaxi. After a bit of difficulty locating the traihead, we trekked up the grassy hills to the more exposed rockface above. I could certainly feel the altitude as we approached the top, huffing a bit and resting from time to time... but all in all it was not a difficult climb. We enjoyed lunch provided by the guide service at the top, but due to the clouds couldn't really see much at the summit. On a clear day, they tell us, we should be able to see three lakes from the summit. The clouds cleared a bit on the way down for some great pictures, so we weren't too disappointed. The path was so steep that Aaron, Troy and Aviv decided to roll down the hill a few times... much to the amusement of the others. While we climbed to the summit, Zoe enjoyed a guided hike partway around the largest lake at Mojanda, below. She reported that the hike was spectacular and the conversation with her guide both educational and interesting. We used Ecomontes Tour guide service for the trip, next to the Peanut shop, on Sucre. www.ecomontestour.com

(Photos)

Laguna de Cuicocha (Cuicocha Crater Lake)

During my stay in Otavalo, we'd seen rain (sometimes HARD rain) pretty much every afternoon. Any adventure out of town meant a risk of rain. Feeling optimistic, we ventured out mid-morning for a hike around Lago de Cuicocha. After 30 minutes by bus and another 15 minutes by taxi we arrived at the lake, which is near the entrance of a large ecological preserve. This crater lake tops an active volcano (3068 m) and has two little islands in the center where the mountain continues to grow. It's possible to climb to the rim of the crater and hike completely around the lake in about five hours. When we arrived, we hired a boat for a quick spin around the islands, and then checked out the little ecological museum so I could understand the geology of the lake. By early afternoon, the weather looked a little too dubious for a full circumnavigation of the lake. We hiked a bit, then headed back towards town for a late lunch. NOTE: If you take a taxi up to the lake, arrange for another to pick you up later. We didn't, and ended up walking a few miles down the road before hitching a ride in the back of a truck to get back to town. If I go another time, I'd plan for a hike around the lake (time permitting). Considering the time of day and the weather, however, the time we spent exploring was just about perfect!


Agua Calientes a Chichambiro
I was invited to join Zoe and her host family on a trip to the hot springs at Chichambiro. We rode for an hour in the back of a pickup truck through the most amazing countryside. I was reminded of my Honduran trip to the hotsprings, also through amazing landscape. This time, because we were riding outside in the bed of a pickup we were able to see even more. The ride was breathtaking!




We arrived at a fantastical water park filled with kids and families enjoying a dragon-shaped water slide, tiny zip-line and rope swings in a giant pool. Zoe and I opted for the extra $3 entry fee for the adjacent "medicinal" pools slightly futher up the hill. There we found equally fantastic concrete decoration surrounding a collection of pools of different temperatures, plus turcos (saunas), naturally hot showers, and cooling pools. I especially enjoyed the cave-like turcos, which smelled of eucalyptus and other herbs. In all, the pools were extremely relaxing, and at the upper pools, not especially crowded. www.chachimbiro.com




Before we left the family shared fresh hot cheese-filled empanadas from the little tiendas at the pools. On the return trip we stopped at the timy hometown of Zoe's host mom, and enjoyed a fruit named chirimoya, kinds of like a soursop; very yummy. (Note: Don't be too afraid of street food when traveling or you'll miss out of some great treats!) Again from the back of the truck we experienced the most amazing sunset, then suffered a bit through a chilly nightfall and a bit of rain. The delightful sunset far outweighed the tiny inconvenience of rain and cold.



NEXT: On to Peru...

Exloring Otavalo: Nearby Adventures

Part 2 of 3

El LecheroEast of town between Otavalo and Laguna de San Pablo, at the top of a steep hill in a grassy clearing there lives an old tree called "El Lechero". Legend says that if you approach the tree with sincerity and give it a hug and a kiss, the tree will grant a wish. In addition to giving out wishes, the tree also provides a "buena vista" of the surrounding area, including the lovely Lago San Pablo below. When I climbed up to the tree with Carol, Tracy and Sophie I think we took a somewhat unconventional (steep and muddy) route to the top, but I've seen others deposited at the top by taxi. I think it's a better adventure to search on foot and if we could do it, anyone can.

(Photos)

Parque Condor
Carol and I continued on foot to Parque Condor after visiting El Lechero. Parque Condor is run by a foundation dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of birds of prey native to the Andes. We arrived just before 11 AM for a walk around the park, which turned out to be perfect timing. After a stroll through the gounds looking at all the captive giant birds, we arrived at the condors. The enormous pair of birds was enthusiastically chasing each other around the huge enclosure, affording us some great photo opportunities. We were in the amphitheater by 11:30, in time for the flight demonstration led by a pair of guides. We learned about and watched half-dozen different birds of prey flying over the valley and back to the guides... an awesome spectacle well worth the trip. Sure, it was a little depressing to see all the caged birds (I feel the same about al zoos.) However, the guides explained that all these birds were rescued from injury in the wild or abandonment by prior owners. If they can be re-introduced to the wild, they are. They all certainly seemed well-kept. The $3 donation seemed like a fair price for such an experience. Open Tuesday through Sunday and public holidays. (Link to Parque Condor)

Laguna de San Pablo y La Cascada de Peguche
A short bus-ride from town is the lovely Laguna de San Pablo, which we used as a starting point for a lovely walk along the river to la Cascada de Peguche. I was very fortunate to have a local guide and friend, Edwin, show me the trail. Along the way I heard many stories about his childhood and family from the area, and he pointed out many hidden treasures that I could never have found on my own, such as natural springs bubbling mysteriously out of little caves or grassy mounds near the waterfalls. At the waterfall, be sure to climb the stairs at the right side of the falls and crawl through the little man-made cave at the top of the steps. Kick off your shoes, roll up your jeans and hop into the stream at the top and continue upstream around a bend in the rock... and you'll encounter another wonderful waterfall out of sight to the right. It's well worth getting your feet wet! On a prior trip to Peguche with Zoe, we stopped before returning to town at a little tienda (shop/bar) for a beer and great sunset view of the city, surrounded by mountains and birds and purple-orange clouds. It was delightful. Thanks to both Zoe and Edwin for making Peguche so memorable!

(Photos)

La Cruz y Socavan
To the east of town you'll see a hill with a giant cross. In the late afternoon, it's well worth a short walk up the hill to sit at the base of the cross and watch the city unwind. On a clear day the view is amazing, surrounded by volcanoes with the city spread below. (For those familiar with Otavalo... you'll
undoubtedly hear the garbage truck somewhere below.) Just below and slightly to the north of the giant cross is another religious icon of the town that's worth a visit. Tucked into the hillside near the piscinas (pools) of Barrio San Francisco is a little cave with a shrine in a pool of water behind an old metal gate. I tossed a coin through the gate into the pool (as instructed) and hope my wish comes true.

Exploring Otavalo, Part 1 of 3: In Town

Now that I've arrived safely in Arequipa, Peru it is well past time that I posted about all the amazing places I explored near Otavalo, Ecuador. Otavalo has plenty to do and see, and I'll recount it in three parts.

This is part 1 of 3: In Town

SHOPPING
Artisan Market. One of the primary tourist attractions in Otavalo is the astonishingly large open market. Bright colors seems to be the recurring theme. If you're looking for brightly-colored tapestries or any variety of clothing, handbags, hammocks or household accessories made from the same tapestries, you'll be in heaven here. Beaded jewelry is also prevalent, and silver with coral, turquoise and other embedded stones. Cotton and wool weavings, bright paintings, mass-produced touristy carvings, and of course ponchos are always available. During the week, the market is large but manageable in a few hours of browsing. The Saturday market swells to fill most of the north end of the city, with products from throughout South America. The prices are a bit higher on Saturdays because the throngs of tourists fill the plaza on the weekends.


Farmers Market. In addition to the enormous artisanal market, slightly to the southwest you'll find Otavalo's farmers market substantial and well worth browsing. Though you could purchase daily necessities from the large supermarkets around town, the food is fresher and less expensive at the farmers market. With the other GVI volunteers I made several trips to the market to purchase fruits, vegetables and meat for our schools.

DINING
Because most of our meals were provided by our host families, We generally only visited restaurants for snacks, coffee and drinks. Occasionally, all the volunteers would gather at a restaurant for a going-away party as well. Some favorite places:

Deli Cafe-Restaurant. I love this place. At the corner of Bolivar and Quiroga, this quasi-Mexican restaurant has good food and a nice coffee-shop feel, and the coffee is the best in all of Otavalo (real espresso served strong!) But the most important characteristic of this shop is the amazingly friendly owner, Yolanda. She also has a room for rent above the restaurant, and her son has two additional rooms in Quito. If I ever return to Otavalo for any length of time, I will try to arrange a stay with her. www.delicaferestaurant.com

The Sanduche Shop. It's not the real name for the place, but that's what is is listed as on the GVI volunteer map, and that's what we called it. On Bolivar between Salinas and Morales, this little shop has enormous sandwiches, nice little pizzas, local breakfasts, a deli counter full of cheese, and shelves full of imported goods. And chocolate! In this miraculous little place we could buy gold-foil wrapped perfection one bite at a time. Or for $0.40, about three bites worth depending of the size of your bite. Yum.

Shenandoah, or the Pie shop. On the south end of Plaza de Los Ponchos you'll find a row of shops and restaurants targeting tourists. The GVI crowd meets at the Pie Shop for, you guessed it, pie, every Sunday night to welcome new volunteers. The project manager Tracy makes a little speech and everyone introduces themselves... and we gorge on $1 slices of chocolate, strawberry, babaco or other fruity pies made fresh each day in the back of the shop. There's also ice cream but everyone comes in for the pie.

Buena Vista. Also on the south end of the Plaza de Los Ponchos, this tourist-friendly (and somewhat expensive) restaurant has a great balcony view of the Plaza. Don't bother with the sandwiches but the nachos are amazing. I often sat on the balcony with a cup of tea in the afternoon to do my Spanish homework or plan lessons for school. Its comfortable, if you don't mind the price tag.

Sahara. This great little home-town place is a chill 2nd-floor bar that only serves beer, and the seating is either at the bar or at pillows on the floor around little candle-lit tables. I didn't see any other tourists; just locals. My kinda place. It's on Bolivar a few blocks south of Parque Bolivar.

NEXT: Nearby Adventures