I've been here just over a week, but I'm having a hard time settling into my new place in Otavalo. If it's possible, I believe that I'm feeling homesick for Copan!
The GVI Phoenix project has approximately two dozen people on the ground here, working in four different schools surrounding Otavalo. I'm with five others in a community called Larcacunga. We take a city bus 15 minutes out of town, then walk about 40 minutes up the mountain on a dirt/mud road to the school. The scenery is breathtaking (when it isn't raining), so I don't mind the walk. I'm teaching the eight third-graders (7 boys, 1 girl). I partner with Matt until he moves on to Peru at the end of this week, then I'll have the class on my own. I've discovered that I really enjoy teaching math to kids this age. The language and soocial sciences are a bit more challenging as I'm still working on my own Spanish skils... but it's al a good time nonetheless.
The home stay and lifestyle in Otavalo (outside of school hours) is much different than I enjoyed in Honduras, and I'm still having a bit of trouble adjusting to this new place. I'll post more as I settle in a bit and have some more photos to put online.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Welcome to Nicaragua
We'll be here less than a week, but the country still deserves a proper entry in this blog...
About Esteli, Nicaragua
Many people still won't consider traveling to Nicaragua because of its long history as a trouble spot. These days, however, the guidebooks say it is the safest country in Central America. From what I've seen so far, Esteli feels more like a suburb of Houston than an out-of-the-way Central American city. You can find fantastic cafes, a juice bar, fast food joints, gas stations with mini-marts, and the occasional American chain store such as Radio Shack. The big grocery store chain here is owned by Wal-Mart. The streets are wide, clean and well lit.
I'm staying at a boarding house just outside of town along with Aaron and Rufus (Maya and Aviv are in a different house on the other side of town). We have three private rooms with two shared baths, and the other two bedrooms in the house are used by the owner and the live-in housekeeper/cook. It is a simple but comfortable one-story edifice made of concrete block covered with concrete. The bedrooms don't have windows, but there is a green corrugated plastic skylight in one section of the corrugated tin roof to let in a little light. The showers are mostly cold. All meals are provided, so far generally including some form of rice, beans, plantains, and sliced white bread -- all filling and relatively nutritious. We have been encouraged to use the provided mosquito nets when we sleep, but I haven't encountered any mosquitoes yet. This is certainly the most basic of accommodations I've encountered on the trip -- but really, it is perfectly comfortable and we will only be here a few days.
(Photos)
Building stoves in La Tompson
For four days Aaron, Aviv, Maya and I will be working with GVI staffer Rufus and local workmen to build three stoves in a community outside of Esteli called La Tompson. As with many of the GVI Phoenix projects, the families of children who attend GVI project schools can be eligible for a concrete and brick cooking stove in or near their home. The stoves initially serve as thanks for families who provide special help to a school, and later are allocated to the families most in need. The stoves are funded and built by volunteers, so the speed with which families receive stoves depends on how many volunteers sign up to visit and build them. We each purchased one stove as part of our six-month volunteer trip; three will be built here in La Tompson, the fourth will be built in Ecuador.
La Tompson is only a short bus ride away from Esteli, but it is an entirely different kind of place. My information about the history of the place is largely thiird of fourth-hand, but here's what I know: The government promised land to the nations' veterans. To fulfil this obligation, unimproved parcels of land were appropriated from individuals or companies and handed over bit by bit to eligible citizens. The result is a profileration of high-density shanty towns like La Tompson. This village of nearly 1000 people was created during 2008 in a giant field once owned by a telephone company, complete with defunct communications tower in the center. What we see now is row after row of tiny plots surrounded by barbed wire, many with rough-hewn board shacks.
(Photos)
I can't help but think of the different frontier towns I've read about in history classes or seen in museums... it looks like a Hoover-ville from post-depression USA, or one of the gold-rush towns in Alaska, or a refugee camp after some major disaster. And yet from what I could see, everyone is banding together to make the best of their newly-granted land-ownership. The neighborhoods were clean and orderly, and everyone has been extremely polite. The first priority seems to be a supply of water to all the homes. We saw fresh trenches with water pipes and many homes already have a water spigot (but no sewage system). We also saw wells dug in several yards. Electricity seems to be far down the priority list.
This new community has a public school with two classrooms, but only one teacher for the 500+ children in the community. Even with separate morning and afternoon classes, there is no way all the children can attend -- so they don't. The GVI project includes the recent construction of a supplementary school for the younger students. Volunteers Noah and Marian (who painted the mural at the school in Honduras) and two others are on the ground to get the school started along with project manager Steve and his intern. The project has a great potential to grow into something wonderful. I look forward to hearing how it evolves along with this brand new frontier town.
About the stoves For those interested in the technical construction of the stoves, I'll attempt to summarize it here. On day 1, the base is constructed with concrete blocks set on packed earth, mortared together with cement. On top of a two-layered U-shape of blocks, we pour a solid slab reinforced with a 4x6 grid of re-bar. We end up with a smooth concrete table with storage underneath for wood or cooking pots. On day 2, on top of the concrete slab we lay three layers of bricks with a small opening in front for the wood. Inside there is a smaller brick firebox with a chimney at the rear. The space between the firebox and exterior surface is insulated with sand, and then the interior is plastered over with a mixture of earth and lime for fireproofing. A brick and metal chimney is fitted onto the rear of the stove, and a steel three-burner plancha (cooking surface) encircled by terracotta tiles makes up the top of the stove. Typically stove construction is completed at the end of the second day, and the stove is ready for use two weeks later (after the concrete has fully cured.)
(Photos)
Build your own stove with GVI!
(Apologies for the shameless GVI plug.) All of the GVI Latin American projects offer stove construction for the students in their schools; Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and the South American countries as well. Most stove volunteer projects are only a week or two, and the end products make a huge impact in the lives of the people who recieve them. The stoves also serve as incentives for families of GVI students to keep their kids in school instead of having them work in the fields or city streets. In addition, the GVI stove projects employ and train local masons to build the stoves. A stove project is a great way to get a taste of another country and do a little good at the same time. Check out the GVI Phoenix web site for more information about how to get involved and maybe build a stove of your own!
About Esteli, Nicaragua
Many people still won't consider traveling to Nicaragua because of its long history as a trouble spot. These days, however, the guidebooks say it is the safest country in Central America. From what I've seen so far, Esteli feels more like a suburb of Houston than an out-of-the-way Central American city. You can find fantastic cafes, a juice bar, fast food joints, gas stations with mini-marts, and the occasional American chain store such as Radio Shack. The big grocery store chain here is owned by Wal-Mart. The streets are wide, clean and well lit.
I'm staying at a boarding house just outside of town along with Aaron and Rufus (Maya and Aviv are in a different house on the other side of town). We have three private rooms with two shared baths, and the other two bedrooms in the house are used by the owner and the live-in housekeeper/cook. It is a simple but comfortable one-story edifice made of concrete block covered with concrete. The bedrooms don't have windows, but there is a green corrugated plastic skylight in one section of the corrugated tin roof to let in a little light. The showers are mostly cold. All meals are provided, so far generally including some form of rice, beans, plantains, and sliced white bread -- all filling and relatively nutritious. We have been encouraged to use the provided mosquito nets when we sleep, but I haven't encountered any mosquitoes yet. This is certainly the most basic of accommodations I've encountered on the trip -- but really, it is perfectly comfortable and we will only be here a few days.
(Photos)
Building stoves in La Tompson
For four days Aaron, Aviv, Maya and I will be working with GVI staffer Rufus and local workmen to build three stoves in a community outside of Esteli called La Tompson. As with many of the GVI Phoenix projects, the families of children who attend GVI project schools can be eligible for a concrete and brick cooking stove in or near their home. The stoves initially serve as thanks for families who provide special help to a school, and later are allocated to the families most in need. The stoves are funded and built by volunteers, so the speed with which families receive stoves depends on how many volunteers sign up to visit and build them. We each purchased one stove as part of our six-month volunteer trip; three will be built here in La Tompson, the fourth will be built in Ecuador.
La Tompson is only a short bus ride away from Esteli, but it is an entirely different kind of place. My information about the history of the place is largely thiird of fourth-hand, but here's what I know: The government promised land to the nations' veterans. To fulfil this obligation, unimproved parcels of land were appropriated from individuals or companies and handed over bit by bit to eligible citizens. The result is a profileration of high-density shanty towns like La Tompson. This village of nearly 1000 people was created during 2008 in a giant field once owned by a telephone company, complete with defunct communications tower in the center. What we see now is row after row of tiny plots surrounded by barbed wire, many with rough-hewn board shacks.
(Photos)
I can't help but think of the different frontier towns I've read about in history classes or seen in museums... it looks like a Hoover-ville from post-depression USA, or one of the gold-rush towns in Alaska, or a refugee camp after some major disaster. And yet from what I could see, everyone is banding together to make the best of their newly-granted land-ownership. The neighborhoods were clean and orderly, and everyone has been extremely polite. The first priority seems to be a supply of water to all the homes. We saw fresh trenches with water pipes and many homes already have a water spigot (but no sewage system). We also saw wells dug in several yards. Electricity seems to be far down the priority list.
This new community has a public school with two classrooms, but only one teacher for the 500+ children in the community. Even with separate morning and afternoon classes, there is no way all the children can attend -- so they don't. The GVI project includes the recent construction of a supplementary school for the younger students. Volunteers Noah and Marian (who painted the mural at the school in Honduras) and two others are on the ground to get the school started along with project manager Steve and his intern. The project has a great potential to grow into something wonderful. I look forward to hearing how it evolves along with this brand new frontier town.
About the stoves For those interested in the technical construction of the stoves, I'll attempt to summarize it here. On day 1, the base is constructed with concrete blocks set on packed earth, mortared together with cement. On top of a two-layered U-shape of blocks, we pour a solid slab reinforced with a 4x6 grid of re-bar. We end up with a smooth concrete table with storage underneath for wood or cooking pots. On day 2, on top of the concrete slab we lay three layers of bricks with a small opening in front for the wood. Inside there is a smaller brick firebox with a chimney at the rear. The space between the firebox and exterior surface is insulated with sand, and then the interior is plastered over with a mixture of earth and lime for fireproofing. A brick and metal chimney is fitted onto the rear of the stove, and a steel three-burner plancha (cooking surface) encircled by terracotta tiles makes up the top of the stove. Typically stove construction is completed at the end of the second day, and the stove is ready for use two weeks later (after the concrete has fully cured.)
(Photos)
Build your own stove with GVI!
(Apologies for the shameless GVI plug.) All of the GVI Latin American projects offer stove construction for the students in their schools; Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and the South American countries as well. Most stove volunteer projects are only a week or two, and the end products make a huge impact in the lives of the people who recieve them. The stoves also serve as incentives for families of GVI students to keep their kids in school instead of having them work in the fields or city streets. In addition, the GVI stove projects employ and train local masons to build the stoves. A stove project is a great way to get a taste of another country and do a little good at the same time. Check out the GVI Phoenix web site for more information about how to get involved and maybe build a stove of your own!
Coming soon...
In Esteli Nicaragua - but not ready to write about it yet...
Even though I've arrived safely in Esteli Nicaragua, I have a few things to wrap up about Copan Ruinas before moving on in this blog. Look for two back-dated Copan posts, then new info about Esteli and our project in nearby La Tompson.
Even though I've arrived safely in Esteli Nicaragua, I have a few things to wrap up about Copan Ruinas before moving on in this blog. Look for two back-dated Copan posts, then new info about Esteli and our project in nearby La Tompson.
Saturday, February 07, 2009
Comidas Ricas -- Food in Copan
This post is simply a listing of some favorite foods from Copan, so that I might attempt to recreate them once I settle into a place with a kitchen of my own. Generous thanks to Carla and my host family for helping me puzzle out ingredients for some of these items.
Baleadas
Served anytime of the day as a meal or a snack. My favorite version in Copan was from Pupuseria Mary, near Commercial Chillys. The ones served at Cafe Welchez were also quite good, as were those from Cafe Picame. (Actually, it's pretty hard to mess up a baleada but we certainly made a good effort to taste and compare all the different variations. Nearly every day, in fact.)
A giant flour tortilla spread on one side wth frijoles (refried beans), then topped with cream, and a sprinkle of hard white cheese. Fold the tortilla in half and grill both sides until everything is toasty, then serve with escaveche vegetables on the side. For an extra special treat, add scrambled eggs inside and serve with sliced avocados.
Frijoles
Served with every meal in some form. At Carla's house, we always had red beans -- but some families had black beans served much the same way. At the beginning of the week there was a pot of frijoles enteros, or whole cooked beans. Some might be mixed in with a rice-n-beans dish, or simply served by the scoop as a side dish. As the week progressed, the same pot of beans would be cooked more and more. At mid-week we had pureed beans that would be reheated for the meals, and later more water could be added for a kind of bean soup. My favorite was the refried bean paste, followed by the rice-n-beans dish called Casamiento. I expect to keep a pot of beans on hand all the time once I'm in my own kitchen again.
Casamiento (rice and beans casserole)
Served for special occasions at Carla's house. It includes a slightly different mix of ingredients depending on what's in the fridge.
Saute julienned onions and bell peppers. Cook and drain chorizo or other sausage. Stir sausage and vegetables together with cooked white rice, whole beans, a bit of margarine, black pepper, consomme powder (chicken bouillon), mayonnaise, and soy sauce. Once combined and heated through, stir in shredded mozzarella cheese. Serve with escaveche vegetables on the side.
Escaviche Vegetables
A staple condiment that is always on the table. At times I recall seeing it on the table in Mexican restaurants in the US, but thee version I remember from the states was always overcooked and over pickled. This is a fresh version that fit appropriately at every meal. The ingredients change based on what's in season.
Julienne or chop vegetables to bite-sized pieces: carrots, onions, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, jalapeno peppers. Quickly blanch vegetables for a duration appropriate to the variety (beans first, then carrots, then cauliflower and broccoli), Do not blanch the onions or jalapenos. Mix all prepared vegetables in a large bowl with thyme, salt, vinegar, oregano, bay leaf, and a bit of salad oil. Let it set for awhile for the flavors to soak in before serving.
Anafre (bean dip)
Served at the fancier restaurants as an appetizer. My favorite version in Copan was from Pupuseria Mary, near Commercial Chillys. The dish is a melty concoction of beans, onions, bell peppers, melty cheese and cooked chorizo pureed together and served in a crock over smoldering embers. The best versino has a bit of cream drizzled over the top and is served with thick fried flour tortilla chips.
Plantanos (fried plantains)
A staple served with most meals, ripe plantains are sliced on the diagonal and fried in a bit of oil on the stovetop, or baked in the oven with a touch of oil.
Tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas)
Always served warm and generally made fresh the same day, every meal is served with these wonderful tasty starchy round things. They are only marginally related to the corn tortillas you find in the supermarkets in the USA. I'm hoping I'll be able to find a local Latin American vendor for fresh-made tortillas in whichever city I land in after all this.
Chile Picante de Carla
The everyday raw picante sauce served at Carla's house. Puree together garlic, cilantro, onions vinegar, jalapenos, salt and black pepper.
Liquados
My afternoon refreshment on hot days. A licuado is a sort of fruit shake, with nothing in it except perfectly ripe fresh fruit, a touch of sugar and either water or milk blended together with a bit of ice. My favorite variety was pineapple and cantaloupe with water.
Maya Frozen
A dangerously tasty concoction that would be difficult to make at home, but is worth a mention on my Copaneco favorite foods list. The best version is served at Cafe Welchez. Blend together coffee granita (sort of a coffee-n-cream flavored slushee) with ice cream, a shot of espresso and chocolate cookie. Pour into a tall milkshake glass with chocolate sauce drizzled over the inside. Top with whipped cream, more chocolate drizzle, and a cherry. Serve with a straw. (And don't forget the little napkin-apron wrapped around the glass.)
Baleadas
Served anytime of the day as a meal or a snack. My favorite version in Copan was from Pupuseria Mary, near Commercial Chillys. The ones served at Cafe Welchez were also quite good, as were those from Cafe Picame. (Actually, it's pretty hard to mess up a baleada but we certainly made a good effort to taste and compare all the different variations. Nearly every day, in fact.)
A giant flour tortilla spread on one side wth frijoles (refried beans), then topped with cream, and a sprinkle of hard white cheese. Fold the tortilla in half and grill both sides until everything is toasty, then serve with escaveche vegetables on the side. For an extra special treat, add scrambled eggs inside and serve with sliced avocados.
Frijoles
Served with every meal in some form. At Carla's house, we always had red beans -- but some families had black beans served much the same way. At the beginning of the week there was a pot of frijoles enteros, or whole cooked beans. Some might be mixed in with a rice-n-beans dish, or simply served by the scoop as a side dish. As the week progressed, the same pot of beans would be cooked more and more. At mid-week we had pureed beans that would be reheated for the meals, and later more water could be added for a kind of bean soup. My favorite was the refried bean paste, followed by the rice-n-beans dish called Casamiento. I expect to keep a pot of beans on hand all the time once I'm in my own kitchen again.
Casamiento (rice and beans casserole)
Served for special occasions at Carla's house. It includes a slightly different mix of ingredients depending on what's in the fridge.
Saute julienned onions and bell peppers. Cook and drain chorizo or other sausage. Stir sausage and vegetables together with cooked white rice, whole beans, a bit of margarine, black pepper, consomme powder (chicken bouillon), mayonnaise, and soy sauce. Once combined and heated through, stir in shredded mozzarella cheese. Serve with escaveche vegetables on the side.
Escaviche Vegetables
A staple condiment that is always on the table. At times I recall seeing it on the table in Mexican restaurants in the US, but thee version I remember from the states was always overcooked and over pickled. This is a fresh version that fit appropriately at every meal. The ingredients change based on what's in season.
Julienne or chop vegetables to bite-sized pieces: carrots, onions, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, jalapeno peppers. Quickly blanch vegetables for a duration appropriate to the variety (beans first, then carrots, then cauliflower and broccoli), Do not blanch the onions or jalapenos. Mix all prepared vegetables in a large bowl with thyme, salt, vinegar, oregano, bay leaf, and a bit of salad oil. Let it set for awhile for the flavors to soak in before serving.
Anafre (bean dip)
Served at the fancier restaurants as an appetizer. My favorite version in Copan was from Pupuseria Mary, near Commercial Chillys. The dish is a melty concoction of beans, onions, bell peppers, melty cheese and cooked chorizo pureed together and served in a crock over smoldering embers. The best versino has a bit of cream drizzled over the top and is served with thick fried flour tortilla chips.
Plantanos (fried plantains)
A staple served with most meals, ripe plantains are sliced on the diagonal and fried in a bit of oil on the stovetop, or baked in the oven with a touch of oil.
Tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas)
Always served warm and generally made fresh the same day, every meal is served with these wonderful tasty starchy round things. They are only marginally related to the corn tortillas you find in the supermarkets in the USA. I'm hoping I'll be able to find a local Latin American vendor for fresh-made tortillas in whichever city I land in after all this.
Chile Picante de Carla
The everyday raw picante sauce served at Carla's house. Puree together garlic, cilantro, onions vinegar, jalapenos, salt and black pepper.
Liquados
My afternoon refreshment on hot days. A licuado is a sort of fruit shake, with nothing in it except perfectly ripe fresh fruit, a touch of sugar and either water or milk blended together with a bit of ice. My favorite variety was pineapple and cantaloupe with water.
Maya Frozen
A dangerously tasty concoction that would be difficult to make at home, but is worth a mention on my Copaneco favorite foods list. The best version is served at Cafe Welchez. Blend together coffee granita (sort of a coffee-n-cream flavored slushee) with ice cream, a shot of espresso and chocolate cookie. Pour into a tall milkshake glass with chocolate sauce drizzled over the inside. Top with whipped cream, more chocolate drizzle, and a cherry. Serve with a straw. (And don't forget the little napkin-apron wrapped around the glass.)
Friday, February 06, 2009
Update on Isaias' Family in Llanatios
Remember Isaias and the family we visited a few times with Ellen in Llanatios? The Thursday before we left Copan the matriarch of Isaias' orphan family died in the night. Isaias walked into town to tell Ellen early in the morning, and we ran into Isaias in Central Park as we were waiting for the truck to school. Even though he had just suffered a terrible loss, he was working hard to smile and put on a positive face -- as always. His ad-hoc family is so unbelievably warm and kind and POOR... it was a real blow to learn of their loss. This group of orphans lost the only adult in their lives, which means 18-yr-old Maria and 16-yr-old Isaias are now the heads of the family and must look after the younger kids.
The day was terribly stormy in fact and not just because of the sad news. The rain poured down and the roads turned to mud. My host family and my instructor at the Spanish school insisted that no sane person would attempt a trip up the mountain in the rain. I chose not to join the other volunteers on their treacherous tuk-tuk taxi ride up to Llanatios that afternoon -- but truly appreciate that they wanted to be with the family. They told me later that after pushing the taxis uphill through the mud, they were able to witness the Llanatios community showing their respects to the family, including a vigil over the fresh-built coffin in the family's mud-brick house.
(SOAPBOX) Ellen will continue to look in on the family from time to time as she has been, and has started another campaign to raise funds for the family. If you have any interest in helping out this wonderful family that touched my soul while I was in Copan -- please contact Ellen at ellenlfinn@hotmail.com. She will put all funds to good use to provide this family with what they need. (/SOAPBOX)
The day was terribly stormy in fact and not just because of the sad news. The rain poured down and the roads turned to mud. My host family and my instructor at the Spanish school insisted that no sane person would attempt a trip up the mountain in the rain. I chose not to join the other volunteers on their treacherous tuk-tuk taxi ride up to Llanatios that afternoon -- but truly appreciate that they wanted to be with the family. They told me later that after pushing the taxis uphill through the mud, they were able to witness the Llanatios community showing their respects to the family, including a vigil over the fresh-built coffin in the family's mud-brick house.
(SOAPBOX) Ellen will continue to look in on the family from time to time as she has been, and has started another campaign to raise funds for the family. If you have any interest in helping out this wonderful family that touched my soul while I was in Copan -- please contact Ellen at ellenlfinn@hotmail.com. She will put all funds to good use to provide this family with what they need. (/SOAPBOX)
Sunday, February 01, 2009
Life in Copan: part 2 of 2
I haven't taken the time to write in my blog much during my stay in Copan. For those interested in following my travels -- I apologize. I'm not sure what it is about this town that has sucked me into a sort of time warp. Every few days I think... "dang, I should get online and post something..." and then it's time for dinner, and then we meet up afterward for drinks or a game of Triominoes and I say to myself... "oh, I'll get to it tomorrow..." suddenly five weeks has gone by with only a single post. I've been a little bit better about keeping up with email and Facebook posts. I offer my thanks to those of you who have written. I really do appreciate the contact and well-wishes.
My time in Copan has been wonderful. I feel that I've seen much more of the area surrounding Copan than was ever possible to see near Antigua. We have quite a bit of free time, and the place is safe enough and comfortable enough to walk around alone or in very small groups (unlike Antigua). Even though I enjoy Maya, Aviv and Aaron, at times we have different interests and it has been refreshing to finally find my own footing and do things on my own or with some of the other (non-GVI) students at Guacamaya Spanish school (I will miss you Wess and Katia!) My host family and accommodations are great (see earlier post), which makes it possible for me to comfortably hang out on my balcony at home and read or sip tea and chat with others (or play Triominoes... did I mention that?) Life has been quite good here.
In addition to hanging out in town, we've had some amazing experiences in nearby barrios (neighborhoods). We met a lovely woman named Ellen who introduced us to some of her friends in a nearby pueblo called Llanatios. Ellen is a former Seattle jazz musician who moved to Copan just over a year ago to find some way to improve the lives of children in the region. With her we've twice been up to visit Isias, Alexander, Merci, Maria and her grandmother at a rural homestead in the mountains of Llanatios. A 45-minute taxi ride up a steep and rutted dirt road into the mountains, we walk up steps cut into the dirt to a surprisingly modern building and landscaping that was constructed with world bank funds a few years ago. The front building houses a small workshop and showroom for Maria's handcrafted pottery. Visitors are invited to help prepare clay from the mud the children collect from higher in the mountains, and visitors may then craft their own pottery. If desired, Maria will fire the visitors' pots in an open fire for collection at a later visit.
(Photos)
On our first visit we not only helped prepare clay and made our own little pots, were also invited to prepare and then enjoy a simple and delicious lunch of frijoles and tortillas. we also brought a plastic soccer ball and a jump rope rope to play with the kids, which they seemed to enjoy. We were all so touched by sincerity and kindness of the family that we all wanted to return a second time. A week later we had a chance for another visit. Wess planned to give his guitar to the very musical Isias as a gift for his 16th birthday, so we were all excited to see how the gift would be received. If it is possible to imagine, our second visit was even more moving and enjoyable than the first. Wess played guitar and Isias sang for us, and then Wess taught Isais to play a few chords. Since Ellen is a professional musician, she helped pick out a few more tunes that Isias could play. His brother Alexander also picked out a few chords, and Maria played a bit as well. When Wess explained to Isias that the guitar was a gift, the whole family was so amazingly happy; and we gringos got all teary-eyed. It was a beautiful moment. We rounded out the morning with more jump rope (the kids couldn't get enough of it), and finally Wess introduced the boys to hackey-sack, which Alexander took to immediately. It was tough to leave. I hope to learn from Ellen how the family turns out, and perhaps will return to Copan to see for myself.
Though there are many challenges with any kind of charity (such as cultivating dependency), I was pleased to see the effect of Ellen's efforts here to help the people she meets. About Ellen: she teaches private English and music lessons to pay the bills, and spend most of her time with her own "Project School Supplies". At the moment, 100% of donated funds goes to her projects. Unaffiliated with any organization, Ellen seeks out schools and families in need of support, and matches funds collected from friends and family to accomplish amazing things at a very personal level. For example, with support from the Seattle-based Elliot Bay Book Store she recently raised funds for a new roof and fresh paint for a village school. If you want to learn more about Ellen's projects (or help out with a donation), contact her at ellenlfinn@hotmail.com. She is an amazing woman doing good work on her own terms, and I admire her approach. She deserves support.
We move onto Nicaragua in a week, on February 7. Though I'm sure the other countries in our itinerary will be great too, I will never forget Copan Ruinas, Honduras. I could imagine making a life here, or at least making this a Central American second home. What a place!
My time in Copan has been wonderful. I feel that I've seen much more of the area surrounding Copan than was ever possible to see near Antigua. We have quite a bit of free time, and the place is safe enough and comfortable enough to walk around alone or in very small groups (unlike Antigua). Even though I enjoy Maya, Aviv and Aaron, at times we have different interests and it has been refreshing to finally find my own footing and do things on my own or with some of the other (non-GVI) students at Guacamaya Spanish school (I will miss you Wess and Katia!) My host family and accommodations are great (see earlier post), which makes it possible for me to comfortably hang out on my balcony at home and read or sip tea and chat with others (or play Triominoes... did I mention that?) Life has been quite good here.
In addition to hanging out in town, we've had some amazing experiences in nearby barrios (neighborhoods). We met a lovely woman named Ellen who introduced us to some of her friends in a nearby pueblo called Llanatios. Ellen is a former Seattle jazz musician who moved to Copan just over a year ago to find some way to improve the lives of children in the region. With her we've twice been up to visit Isias, Alexander, Merci, Maria and her grandmother at a rural homestead in the mountains of Llanatios. A 45-minute taxi ride up a steep and rutted dirt road into the mountains, we walk up steps cut into the dirt to a surprisingly modern building and landscaping that was constructed with world bank funds a few years ago. The front building houses a small workshop and showroom for Maria's handcrafted pottery. Visitors are invited to help prepare clay from the mud the children collect from higher in the mountains, and visitors may then craft their own pottery. If desired, Maria will fire the visitors' pots in an open fire for collection at a later visit.
(Photos)
On our first visit we not only helped prepare clay and made our own little pots, were also invited to prepare and then enjoy a simple and delicious lunch of frijoles and tortillas. we also brought a plastic soccer ball and a jump rope rope to play with the kids, which they seemed to enjoy. We were all so touched by sincerity and kindness of the family that we all wanted to return a second time. A week later we had a chance for another visit. Wess planned to give his guitar to the very musical Isias as a gift for his 16th birthday, so we were all excited to see how the gift would be received. If it is possible to imagine, our second visit was even more moving and enjoyable than the first. Wess played guitar and Isias sang for us, and then Wess taught Isais to play a few chords. Since Ellen is a professional musician, she helped pick out a few more tunes that Isias could play. His brother Alexander also picked out a few chords, and Maria played a bit as well. When Wess explained to Isias that the guitar was a gift, the whole family was so amazingly happy; and we gringos got all teary-eyed. It was a beautiful moment. We rounded out the morning with more jump rope (the kids couldn't get enough of it), and finally Wess introduced the boys to hackey-sack, which Alexander took to immediately. It was tough to leave. I hope to learn from Ellen how the family turns out, and perhaps will return to Copan to see for myself.
Though there are many challenges with any kind of charity (such as cultivating dependency), I was pleased to see the effect of Ellen's efforts here to help the people she meets. About Ellen: she teaches private English and music lessons to pay the bills, and spend most of her time with her own "Project School Supplies". At the moment, 100% of donated funds goes to her projects. Unaffiliated with any organization, Ellen seeks out schools and families in need of support, and matches funds collected from friends and family to accomplish amazing things at a very personal level. For example, with support from the Seattle-based Elliot Bay Book Store she recently raised funds for a new roof and fresh paint for a village school. If you want to learn more about Ellen's projects (or help out with a donation), contact her at ellenlfinn@hotmail.com. She is an amazing woman doing good work on her own terms, and I admire her approach. She deserves support.
We move onto Nicaragua in a week, on February 7. Though I'm sure the other countries in our itinerary will be great too, I will never forget Copan Ruinas, Honduras. I could imagine making a life here, or at least making this a Central American second home. What a place!
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