Copan Ruinas is a busy tourist destination. Though my group is in town primarily to help out at the primary school in the nearby community of San Rafael, we have been able to take advantage of many other activities in and near this laid-back Honduran town. 've had significantly more free time here than I did in Antigua, and as a result I've been able to visit many interesting attractions nearby:
Copan Ruinas Archeological Park and Museum
Most people visit Copan to see the nearby Mayan ruins. They are a short walk from the city center, and I was enchanted enough to return several times. Much smaller than Tikal, the carvings in Copan are better preserved and had been more ornate to begin with. I've enjoyed seeing both, plus nearby Quirigua.
HISTORY: Ancient Copan began ~200AD and within 200 years grew into an important Mayan city with a peak population of 20,000. The city thrived during the 420s to 850s when Copan was ruled by a single dynastic lineage of 16 kings. A slow decline followed, and by the time of the Spanish conquest the former ceremonial center had been swallowed by the jungle. Today the ruins cover about 12 acres along a river valley. The site is best known for well-preserved intricate carvings and hieroglypic inscriptions, including a large series of portrait stelae (symbolic statues). The guides say that if Tikal (in Guatemala) was like the New York city of ancient Mayan civilization, then Copan was like Paris.
TO VISIT: The archeological park has several parts with different admission rates. $15US/pp gets you into the primary archeological site. Two hours is plenty to see everything, and it is well worth the additional $25 per group for a trained bi-lingual guide. For the hardcore Maya enthusiast, an additional $15US gains you admission to a few short stretches of the archeological tunnels cut under the tunnels (I don't think it is worth the price.) Not to be missed, though, is the nearby sculpture museum ($7/pp) which houses some of the more elaborate original carvings and stelae, plus a full-size vividly colored replica of an ancient temple. There is no charge to simply walk the nature trail, with informational signs, plenty of wildlife and a restored Mayan ball court in the center of a peaceful glen.
(Photos)
Luna Jaguar Hot Springs (Agua Calientes)
I enjoyed the hot springs enough to go twice. The resort is an hour drive from Copan through astonishingly beautiful countryside and the Sesesmil community, just 5 KM from the Guatemalan border. The steep mountains are covered with a patchwork of wild jungle and cultivated fields established hundreds of years ago by the descendants of Spanish settlers. If I return to Copan, I would like sign up for the two-day horseback trip, including five hours in the saddle each way and an overnight stay at the resort hotel.
The resort has two parts with a different admission ticket for each. The picnic grounds, blue plaster swimming pools and unimproved riverbanks are available for ~$2US. This is where locals hang out is they're coming in for a soak. For an additional ~$10US guests (mostly tourists) have access to the improved resort designed to resemble a Mayan holy site. To begin the "journey to the underworld", guests cross the river on a suspension bridge and then walk through a cave-like tunnel decorated with replicas of Mayan carvings. A guide leads each group of guests through the grounds to explain the steam bath, foot bath, massage temple, ritual areas, and hot to adjust the water temperature in some of the pools. guests are then left to explore or settle into a pool of their choice. The resort is truly in the jungle with exotic birds, butterflies and flowers surrounding stone pools of sulfurous hot water streaming out of a natural spring. If you go, plan to stay through sunset to watch and listen to the jungle life shift from day to night, with bats and frogs waking up as the sun goes down. It is well worth a visit.
(Photos)
Birds and Butterflies
Two popular attractions are only a short taxi ride from the city center. The Macaw Mountain Birk Park (Parque de Aves) is a private sanctuary for rescued birds, mostly prior house pets. On the grounds visitors walk a zoo-like path between large cages to view captive Macaw, parrots, toucans and other colorful Central American birds. In one area visitors are invited to pose for photos with a few friendly birds. Visitors are also given a short lesson about the coffee plantation managed by the owners of the bird park, and the tour ends at the plantation's coffee shop.
At the other end of Copan you can visit a private butterfly and orchid garden. When we went, only a few unspectacular butterflies inhabited the butterfly enclosure, and only two of the 117 varieties of orchid were in bloom. However, I can imagine this to be an amazing stop in a warmer season, when both the butterflies and orchids are in full color. For the orchid enthusiast I would image the garden of interest at any time of the year. Even with somewhat bland inhabitants, with landscaping and buildings were interesting and comfortable to walk around in for an hour.
(Photos)
Hacienda San Lucas and Los Sapos archeological site
About half an hour's walk out of town we went out to enjoy the sunset from a lovely vista at Hacienda San Lucas. We didn't stay for dinner or overnight (it is one of the most expensive hotels in the region). Before dusk, we walked through the Hacienda grounds to the interesting Los Sapos archeological site, with giant carved stone toads that were part of an ancient Mayan holy site related to fertility and childbirth. Before dark we returned to the Hacienda to sit out in the grassy hillside to watch the sun go down over the valley. It was well worth a nice walk along the river and through Copeneco farmland for the lovely view.
Guacamaya Spanish School
The Guacamaya Spanish School served as base camp during our time in Copan. I've heard it is rated as the second best Spanish school in Central America, and I believe it. The one-on-one instruction is marvelous (especially my maestra Yarely) and the teachers have a well-defined curriculum with three workbook levels based on student competency. I'll have taken 30 hours of instruction by the time I leave, and feel that my Spanish has improved enormously. It would be significantly better if I practiced more -- but that's not the fault of the school. In addition to providing instruction the school arranges transportation and tickets for many of our activities, and they coordinate all the homestays. The school serves as a general meeting place and internet cafe for GVI volunteers. The school hosted an Obama inauguration party, and the schoolmaster Enrique is generally helpful with anything related to life and travel around Copan. If anyone is considering a Spanish immersion program with homestay in Central America, this is ABSOLUTELY the place to be.
Horseback riding to La Pintada
We mounted up on horseback for a three-hour ride including a stop in the indigenous Chorti pueblo (village) of La Pintada. The pueblo is a popular tourist destination that has received quite a bit of funding to develop a school, a textile workshop, and and small market for other handcrafts. Tourists are welcomed, and immediately surrounded by children selling corn-husk dolls. While in the village we were invited into a home very close to the market building for a demonstration of tortilla-making. After patting little balls of masa (corn dough) into flat discs, our tortillas were fried on an iron plancha (grill) over a wood fire in our hostess' home. While this experience was clearly set up as a tourist attraction, I have since learned that what we witnessed at La Pintada closely reflects the cooking setup of many homes in the mountains surrounding Copan.
(Photos)
Stay tuned for part two...
Friday, January 30, 2009
Friday, January 09, 2009
Welcome to Copan Ruinas, Honduras
On December 27, 2008 my group (me, Aaron, Aviv and Maya, along with GVI intern Sophie) drove 5 hours from Antigua, Guatemala to Copan Ruinas, Honduras for the next six weeks of our GVI volunteer trip.
About Copan Ruinas
Copan Ruinas (often called simply Copan) is just a few minutes' drive east of the Guatemalan border in mountainous western Honduras. Copan is just half mile from a nice collection of Maya ruins that give the town its name. Much smaller and less-frequently visited than Antigua, I find the town much more comfortable and welcoming in some ways. It is certainly safer to walk alone here, even at night.
(Photos)
Like Antigua, the town surrounds a 1-block square Central Park with fountain. On one side is a cathedral, on another is small indoor farmers market, and the rest of the city an interspersing of little shops, hotels, restaurants and private homes. Like any other town, the ratio of homes vs shops increases as you get further from the central square.
I've found that just about anything you might need is available in the nearby shops. In fact little Copan seems to have more imported goods (shampoo, snack foods, etc.) than I found in Antigua. Copan has plenty of great little coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Some favorites are Cafe Villamil for liquados (fruit smoothies) and hot chocolate and free internet in the afternoons, Cafe ViaVia for drinks and music and the occasional brownie after dinner, and Barcito - a little hole-in-the-wall bar good for chilling out with a beer when Cafe ViaVia is just too crowded.
About the GVI Project
(Courtesy of the GVI website)
"We are working with the Indigenous Chorti community of San Rafael, which is a 20-minute drive up through lush mountain scenery from Copan Ruinas. Our aims are to improve the standard of living of the Indigenous families who live in extreme poverty by providing children with a better level of education at the local state school. We aim to achieve this through working alongside the two resident teachers to improve the basic facilities at the school, supplement the learning materials required and offer enhanced levels of teaching through the presence of volunteers. GVI works in the community with the full support of the Indigenous leaders of the community."
As there are only two resident teachers for a school with nearly a hundred students in six grades, volunteers often take responsibility for a specific grade. I believe I'll be teaching 2nd graders the entire time, with lesson plans and class materials provided by a local teacher.
(Photos)
The state school is still on holiday, so we've spent the past two weeks painting the school and working on a water collection and storage system with a local craftsmen. On Monday we begin two weeks of GVI-hosted pre-school warm-up for the two youngest grades. After two weeks we'll be joined by grades 3 to 6 and the two "real" teachers to begin the regular state school curriculum of Spanish, math, and natural and social sciences.
In addition to the regular 1st to 6th grade classes in the mornings, GVI hosts optional afternoon classes in English for secondary school students and adults.
My Home in Copan
I'm staying in one of three apartments rented by Carla and her family. I have a second-story room with private entry, bath and balcony. I especially enjoy the balcony with a view of the surrounding hills and all the activity in the street below. This feels like the middle of a metropolis (in relative Honduran terms), with traffic at all hours and bustling tiendas (shops) on all sides. Kids play in the street and stray dogs and cats roam unmolested. Most of the tiendas are in the front entry of private homes, so I see my neighbors out on their second-story balconies up and down the street, enjoying the same breezes and views that I enjoy.
(Photos)
In addition to leasing rooms, Carla runs a sort of catering business out of her kitchen. She has a handful of regulars who eat lunch or dinner in her kitchen, sometimes she hosts groups either in her large reception area or on the roof terrace, and she also prepares food for parties and events in other locations. She's ALWAYS busy, and her cooking is wonderful.
I've been invited to join in a number of family events at Carla's home, including a New Years' eve party, the baptism of her god-daughter, and her brother's 41st birthday party. There's always something going on in the house, and everyone has been welcoming and patient with my slowly improving Spanish language skills.
Contact Information for Copan
I'll be in Copan until mid-February, which really isn't enough time for mail to arrive via post. email is still the best way to contact me. In an emergency I can be reached through the the following phone numbers:
* Carla/Roberto (Host family, only speaks Spanish) (00 504) 6514815
* Enrique (Host family coordinator, speaks English) (00 504) 99253988
* Dom Williams (GVI Director for Latin America, in Antigua) (00 502) 58384217
About Copan Ruinas
Copan Ruinas (often called simply Copan) is just a few minutes' drive east of the Guatemalan border in mountainous western Honduras. Copan is just half mile from a nice collection of Maya ruins that give the town its name. Much smaller and less-frequently visited than Antigua, I find the town much more comfortable and welcoming in some ways. It is certainly safer to walk alone here, even at night.
(Photos)
Like Antigua, the town surrounds a 1-block square Central Park with fountain. On one side is a cathedral, on another is small indoor farmers market, and the rest of the city an interspersing of little shops, hotels, restaurants and private homes. Like any other town, the ratio of homes vs shops increases as you get further from the central square.
I've found that just about anything you might need is available in the nearby shops. In fact little Copan seems to have more imported goods (shampoo, snack foods, etc.) than I found in Antigua. Copan has plenty of great little coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Some favorites are Cafe Villamil for liquados (fruit smoothies) and hot chocolate and free internet in the afternoons, Cafe ViaVia for drinks and music and the occasional brownie after dinner, and Barcito - a little hole-in-the-wall bar good for chilling out with a beer when Cafe ViaVia is just too crowded.
About the GVI Project
(Courtesy of the GVI website)
"We are working with the Indigenous Chorti community of San Rafael, which is a 20-minute drive up through lush mountain scenery from Copan Ruinas. Our aims are to improve the standard of living of the Indigenous families who live in extreme poverty by providing children with a better level of education at the local state school. We aim to achieve this through working alongside the two resident teachers to improve the basic facilities at the school, supplement the learning materials required and offer enhanced levels of teaching through the presence of volunteers. GVI works in the community with the full support of the Indigenous leaders of the community."
As there are only two resident teachers for a school with nearly a hundred students in six grades, volunteers often take responsibility for a specific grade. I believe I'll be teaching 2nd graders the entire time, with lesson plans and class materials provided by a local teacher.
(Photos)
The state school is still on holiday, so we've spent the past two weeks painting the school and working on a water collection and storage system with a local craftsmen. On Monday we begin two weeks of GVI-hosted pre-school warm-up for the two youngest grades. After two weeks we'll be joined by grades 3 to 6 and the two "real" teachers to begin the regular state school curriculum of Spanish, math, and natural and social sciences.
In addition to the regular 1st to 6th grade classes in the mornings, GVI hosts optional afternoon classes in English for secondary school students and adults.
My Home in Copan
I'm staying in one of three apartments rented by Carla and her family. I have a second-story room with private entry, bath and balcony. I especially enjoy the balcony with a view of the surrounding hills and all the activity in the street below. This feels like the middle of a metropolis (in relative Honduran terms), with traffic at all hours and bustling tiendas (shops) on all sides. Kids play in the street and stray dogs and cats roam unmolested. Most of the tiendas are in the front entry of private homes, so I see my neighbors out on their second-story balconies up and down the street, enjoying the same breezes and views that I enjoy.
(Photos)
In addition to leasing rooms, Carla runs a sort of catering business out of her kitchen. She has a handful of regulars who eat lunch or dinner in her kitchen, sometimes she hosts groups either in her large reception area or on the roof terrace, and she also prepares food for parties and events in other locations. She's ALWAYS busy, and her cooking is wonderful.
I've been invited to join in a number of family events at Carla's home, including a New Years' eve party, the baptism of her god-daughter, and her brother's 41st birthday party. There's always something going on in the house, and everyone has been welcoming and patient with my slowly improving Spanish language skills.
Contact Information for Copan
I'll be in Copan until mid-February, which really isn't enough time for mail to arrive via post. email is still the best way to contact me. In an emergency I can be reached through the the following phone numbers:
* Carla/Roberto (Host family, only speaks Spanish) (00 504) 6514815
* Enrique (Host family coordinator, speaks English) (00 504) 99253988
* Dom Williams (GVI Director for Latin America, in Antigua) (00 502) 58384217
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