Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Antigua - Geography and History

The first base city of my six-month GVI tour is Antigua, Guatemala. This post provides a bit of background information about the city.

Geography
Antigua is surrounded by volcanoes. Three are frequently used as reference points when navigating around town: Volcan Agua to the southeast, Volcan Acantengo to the west, and Volcan Fuega -- an active volcano with a continuous plume of smoke -- to the southwest. Another is Volcan Pacaya, a popular tourist destination where visitors get close enough to light their cigarettes in the flowing lava.

Though the sun is quite strong during the day, due to the elevation Antigua gets quite cold after sunset and we all run around in caps, jackets and scarfs.

History
Founded in 1543, the city was Guatemala's colonial capital for 233 years. The capital moved to Guatemala City after much of the city was destroyed during a violent earthquake in 1773. The city is now protected as a UNESCO national heritage site, so any new development seems to fit into the existing style of architecture.

(From Lonely Planet) "Most of Antigua's building were constructed during thr 17th and 18th centuries when the city was a rich Spanish outpost and the Catholic church was ascending to power. Many handsome, sturdy colonial buildings remain, and several impressive ruins have been preserved and are open to the public."

Today in Antigua

Well developed for tourism, Antigua is an easy city to visit. The infrastructure is clearly a priority, with underground power lines, regularly maintained roads, and men with palm-leaf brooms out sweeping the sidewalks and parkways each morning. The city has fantastic restaurants, abundant internet cafes and coffeshops, and tourism services everywhere. According to the guidebooks Antigua has seen a significant decrease in crime due to recent introduction of the Tourism Police, a highly visible, approachable and friendly municipal corps who will gladly advise tourists on nearly any Antiguan subject, as well as lead organized walks to the more notoriously dangerous attractions.

Where to Stay

Hotel San Maco. GVI volunteers typically stay their first night at this tidy and simple hotel near the Candelaria district. It is clean and comfortable (enough), and fairly inexpensive because it is a few minutes' walk from the center of town.

Where to Eat/Drink
Antigua is filled with pubs, restaurants and coffee shops, and I've only had a week so far to explore. Some highlights passed on by the current volunteers are listed below. I'm sure to discover other spots in the next few weeks, and will post them 'mas tarde' (later).

* El Murro
* Cafe No Se
* Rainbow Cafe
* La Fuenta
* Bistro Cinq

About eating in Antigua
When I visited the Polyclinic travel medicine doc in Seattle, I was given the typical cautions about avoiding street food, not eating any fruits or vegetables that can't be peeled, and of course not to drink the water. I've chosen to follow the eating patterns of the other volunteers: I avoid tap water (and so do the locals), but I'll eat any food provided by my host family or in a restaurant, and I brush my teeth in tap water. So far, I haven't had any trouble adapting to the food and drink in Antigua. (Knock on wood...)

For more information about Antigua:

Lonely Planet - Antigua Guatemala
Google Maps - Antigua Guatemala

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