Exploring Quito, Ecuador

I've been living in Otavalo, but spent two weekends exploring Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. Quito is two hours from Otavalo by bus. My first visit to Quito was when we first arrived in Ecuador from Nicaragua. Since I was somewhat preoccupied with adjusting to the altitude, I managed to return for another weekend to really enjoy the city.

NOTE: Quito is a BIG city. It has all the art and history (and crime) that goes along with the other big cities. As you're exploring keep hold of your camera, put it away when not in use, and keep a sharp eye on all of your belongings. (Zoe had her camera nicked while were on a street corner looking at a map, like a couple of stupid tourists.) Nonetheless, there is plenty to see and it is definitely worth the risk. Just keep your eyes open and your wits about you and it just as safe than any other major city in the world.

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What to Do

The National Museum of the Central Bank of Ecuador (Museo Nacional del Banco Central del Ecuador). If you're new to Ecuador, this should be your first stop. For $2 you'll get a beautifully laid-out overview of the history, art and culture of this amazingly diverse country. The archaeology gallery was my favorite. I was surprised to learn that the Incans only lived in Ecuador for about 100 years before Spanish conquest, and there was a thriving social history all the way back to 4000 BC. Bi-lingual informational placards, detailed dioramas, maps and artifacts lead visitors through Ecuadorian history from pre-ceramic cultures up through the decline of the Incans in 1533. Other galleries highlight colonial, republican and modern life in the country. After two to three hours you'll have a solid foundation for exploring the rest of the sites in Quito and around Ecuador. Closed Mondays.

Walking tour. We used a book "Walking Quito Ecuador" by Rita Bornemisza as a guide for our walking exploration of the city, but I suspect any guidebook would do. Some highlights from our walk:

• Alameda Park. Filled with families and artists and street vendors, I was reminded of the painting Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat. The park was laid out in the 16th century shortly after Spanish conquest, at the origins of the city's design. Today it has a little river with paddle boats, an astronomical observatory, and several monuments and statues for kids to avoid while playing football (soccer) or Frisbee in the grass. It's a nice place to sit under a tree with a book or people-watch, and you can pick up a variety of great street foods for less than a buck.


• Basilica of the National Vote. Begun in the late 19th century and still under construction, the exterior of this Neo-Gothic basilica is covered with gargoyles unique to Ecuador, representing the animals of the country. You'll see leaping monkeys, anteaters and sloths along with sea birds and other fantastic creatures of the jungle. Impressive stained glass windows make the interior glow. Don't miss the opportunity to climb to the very tippy-top of the clock tower; if you can stand the narrow stairs and ladders, you'll get a special treat of the view from this highest point in the city.


• San Francisco Square. After walking up and down hills and looking at the exteriors of old buildings, monasteries, churches and shops, Zoe and I were looking or a nice place to sit and enjoy a cold drink. She led me to an little outdoor cafe in San Francisco Square. With white-linen service we enjoyed our beverages while watching the tourists and locals buzzing around the square.
  
  NOTE: Every city I've visited has had a big fountain in a central plaza, surrounded by important buildings; usually a cathedral on one side and government buildings on the others. What I hadn't realized until reading my guide book in San Francisco Square is the importance of that central fountain. According to my book, "Indigenous people obtained their water supply from the Pinchincha Mountains by means of well-designed channels directed towards their royal buildings and neighborhoods..." When the square was flanked by an Incan palace this was true, and when Spaniards settled on the site they maintained the system for the same purpose. Well, of course. There was no central plumbing, and no rivers passing through town. The fountains in central plazas allowed the church and/or government to control the city's water supply. While sipping my bottled water at the cafe table I could envision a time when women and their children came to fill urns of precious water, and at the same time were reminded of the power of the church and government in their daily lives.

Twentieth Century Quito. Quito isn't all about archaeology and Spanish colonial history. On my last full day in the city I visited some more modern sites. I certainly didn't hit them all, but here were my highlights:

• Teleferiqo Cablecar. From town, take a $3 - $4 cab ride to the Teleferiqo (the driver will know where to go) and for another $8 get a 10-minute cablecar ride to 4100 meters and a great view of the city and surrounding mountains. Don't bother if the weather is lousy. Otherwise, the view is amazing, and you'll get to see how a little altitude feels in your lungs. There's a little cafe at the top, and a chapel. Otherwise, it's a path through grassy hills and amazing views.


• The Chapel of Man. My guidebook tells me that Oswaldo Guyasamin, a long-time resident of Quito, was one of Latin America's most important 20th century artists. On the grounds of his home in the Buena Vista neighborhood, Guayasamin designed and built a museum to display his art. This impressive architectural and artistic expression of a visionary is a moving example of the the power of art. Absolutely with a visit. You'll need to take a cab, and arrange to have a return trip out of this lovely hillside suburb.
  
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• Camilo Egas Museum. Back in the center of old Quito, this museum is inside a lovingly restored colonial home. Born in 1880 and trained in the Beaux Arts school, Egas lived in New york for much of his life and was widely regarded as an important Latin American artist. His museum highlights the different phases of his art in different rooms: indigenous, expressionist, surrealist, cubist, and abstract art. You can clearly see the influences of other well-known artists in his work. My favorite gallery was his indigenous art, where he clearly captured the personalities of his subjects. On Sundays, admission to the museum is free.

The Middle of the World. Ecuador has two competing Equator museums: the largest and best known monument "Mitad del Mundo" is supposed to be quite impressive, but we passed on it in favor of the smaller (and I suspect less expensive) Intiñan Solar Museum, which claims to be sighted a few hundred meters from the original monument according to modern GPS technology. It's quite kitchy, and were I to return I'd visit the original Mitad del Mundo instead. Either way it's worth it to get your picture with one foot in each hemisphere.

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Where to Stay

The Marsical Sucre neighborhood ("La Marsical") is filled with tourists, and also with reasonably priced hostels. It is in easy bus/taxi range (or moderate walking distance) from old town, parks and museums. You'll find every type of restaurant nearby. The downside to being in the middle of the tourist zone is, well, the tourists.

• Posada del Maple Bed & Breakfast. In the largest dorm-style room with bunkbeds and dorm-style ath and showers, we paid $7/pp/night. Smaller rooms are a bit more, and I'm not sure if they have private rooms. This is a big place but very well run and extremely hospitable.


• Villa Nancy. GVI is a regular customer of Villa Nancy, a Scandanavian-inspired bed & breakfast. With three floors of rooms in varying sizes (some with shared bathrooms), a nice breakfast and free wireless and internet service, it's not a bad place to stay.

Where to Eat

The Marsical Sucre neighborhood, near the hotels listed above, has dozens of restaurants targeted at tourists from around the world. We were amused by some of their names: a hamburger joint named "G-Spot" and a Chinese retaurant named "Ho's", with the slogan "I love Ho's". Nonetheless there is something for everyone. Some repeat visits worth mentioning:

• El Pobre Diablo. This one is in your guide books. It's a bit out of the way and might need a taxi ride, but is worth the trip. Our first visit was on Valentine's Day, when we first arrived in Quito. It was perfect. They offer live jazz on the weekends beginning at around 9 PM. The food is updated traditional Ecuadorian with plenty of options at reasonable prices ($5-7 for a large entre). The real draw is the atmosphere. High ceilings and walls covered with art and movie posters, warm colors, wood and candlelight make for a welcoming place to hang out with friends. An upstairs loft-balcony would be ideal for a romantic dinner for two, and a large party room had what appeared to be a wedding rehearsal dinner. And our group of 16 volunteers was able to pull together enough tables for an impromptu gathering. The staff was friendly and acommodating. Highly recommended.


• Coffee Toffee. For decent coffee, breakfast/lunch, and free wireless (or a hard-wired computer if you forgot your laptop), check out this little Ecuadorian cafeteria. The quiche & coffee special is a good deal, the sandwiches are nice, and you can get a fullllapangachos meal for just a few dollars (cheesy-mashed potato fritters under a fried egg, with sausage, avocado, salad and rice on the side.)


• A little ways out of El Mariscal neighborhood you can find cheaper local food, and it's worth the search. I didn't catch the name or exact location but if you look you can find a wonderful lunch "menu of the day" for $2.50. I suspect it's pretty common. Look for where the locals eat and you'll probably be happy every time.