Family and Friends in the Midwest

It's been quite awhile since my last post and I have a bit of catching up to do! After all the sight-seeing in the Anasazi / Four-Corners region I've been primarily busy with friends and family: not the kind of stuff I thought would be interesting for a broad audience. More specifically, reconnecting with family and friends has been cause for reflection and soul-searching that (at times) I'm not entirely comfortable posting to a broad audience. Nonetheless, here's a recap of some of my recent adventures -- so that I don't forget, and just in case anyone out there is interested. For anyone who was concerned about my lack of Twitter/Facebook posts... I apologize. But I'll admit it was nice to just turn off the phone for awhile.

(UPDATE: Slideshow added at the end.)

Milwaukee
Max and I had great visit with my mom Vicki and her husband at their home in Milwaukee, even though they were tied up the first two days of our stay working at the Bastille Days Festival, where they sell sunglasses at a trade booth. My brother and his girlfriend Donna were in Milwaukee at the same time so we managed to explore a bit together. It was bad timing on our parts, but seemed to work out in the end. Paul and Donna visited the Harley-Davidson museum and explored in town, and I was able to simply relax, take care of some basic van maintenance, and read a little. We also made it to the festival, had some great meals, and toured the Lakefront Brewery (well worth it!)

Toward Minneapolis
By mid-week we all said good-bye to Vicki and packed into the van for our trip to Minneapolis. We made it a two-day trip and stopped along the way to check out the Cave of the Mounds (sparkly) and Frank Lloyd Wright's compound near Spring Green called Taliesin. I'd been to Taliesin before and really enjoyed going back to see some of the new restoration work on the site. It was also an interesting comparison to Arcosanti from earlier in this road trip. Two very different idealistic architects with commune-style compounds... but Taliesin feels like a functional, beautiful well-considered place while Arcosanti (as I said in a previous post) felt like an out-dated moderately-good idea that should have been shut down years ago. The visit to Taliesin reinforced my impressions of Arcosanti.

Our late departure from Milwaukee and tourist stops along the way necessitated an overnight stay in La Crosse WI, and I was very pleased to catch up with my friend Wess Roberts (whom I met in Honduras), who was visiting his dad in the area. (More about Wess later.)

Minneapolis
As I may have mentioned in an earlier post, the only fixed date in my entire road trip was the Dressel Family Reunion on July 19 near Minneapolis. As has become tradition, I stayed with my sister April and her family (husband Bo, kids Philip and Timothy) for a few days surrounding the reunion. This time my Dad and stepmom were also staying at the house, and with my brother in town nearby we had our own little reunion for the immediate family a few days before the grand gathering with extended relatives. On the 19th we caravan-ed up to Maple Grove for the big reunion; rather smallish this year with only 40(?) people. The guest list is generally my great-great-grandfather's offspring, which has been over 100 in attendance at times. This year it seemed that all of the oldest generation, with the most senior attendee a sprightly septuagenarian. It was great to reconnect once again with all the second-cousins and see how all the children have grown in the two years since I last attended. And we'll all be back again next year in mid-July for another one!

UP Michigan and Southwest Wisconsin
After the reunion I drove up to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and met up again with Wess, this time with his family at THEIR annual reunion. Instead of a BBQ in someones suburban backyard (like my family), they all meet at the Hiawatha Traditional Music Festival in Marquette MI. I pulled in near the end of the festival and popped open my camper van, where Max and I were welcomed into a great hippy music scene. Over the next several days we went to a nearly beach and jumped off cliffs into an icy Lake Superior, hiked up a nearby mountain (and got lost on the way back to the parking lot), climbed some great sand dunes, hiked to Chapel Rock and Chapel Beach in the Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore, found several waterfalls, visited Naubinway for some local live music, found my namesake Borgstrom Road, ate pasties, and generally had a grand time. Heading southwest from the UP, we stopped with Wess' uncle Paul and fiance Rachel in Green Bay WI for more swimming, then continued down to La Crosse WI for more summertime fun: camping at Goose Island, two days at the Kickapoo Country Fair with folk music, food and a visit to an organic permaculture farm; a few stops at grocery co-ops, and visits to some great bars and restaurants in La Crosse. And of course dinner and game night with Willy, Penny, Emma and Wess at their house in Stoddard WI. I'm grateful for being included in such a great week of vacation with Wess and his family.

This morning Wess left on a train back to his home in North Carolina. From there, he'll be relocating to Central America in early September. I wish my friend the very best as he journeys back down to the troubled nation of Honduras. To Wess: thanks for sharing your friends and family and traditions with me. I'm glad we were able to reconnect however briefly before you leave the country. Be well, my friend, and keep in touch!


(Link to slides)

RECAP

8-9 July
- Transit across the prairies; flat tire near York NE
11-14 July
- Milwaukee, WI (at my Mom's house)
- Bastille Days festival
- Lakefront brewery tour
15 July
- Cave of the Mounds
- Taliesin / Frank Lloyd Wright compound
- La Crosse, WI (Guest House Inn w/ Paul and Donna)
16-18 July
- Lakeville, MN (at my sister's house)
- Dressel annual family reunion (my Dad's side of the family)
19 July
- Marquette, MI (camping)
- Hiawatha Traditional Music Festival
20-22 July
- exploring Upper Peninsula MI
23 July
- Green Bay WI
24-26 July
- exploring around La Crosse, WI
- Kickapoo Country Festival


NEXT UP (subject to change)
- Denver area
- Return to Seattle

Another flat tire

Yesterday on I-80 about an hour west of Lincoln NE, my right-rear tire blew out.

If you knew me two years ago, you may remember the trouble I had with tires on my van when I first drove it home. I bought my camper on eBay from a guy in Atlanta GA. (Eurovan campers are somewhat hard to find, and this was the best I could find at t he time.) I flew down Thanksgiving week 2007 to pick it up. The seller met me at the airport, showed me all the features and controls, I took him back to his house and then I started on my 3900 mile journey back to Seattle.

Outside of Shawneee OK the right-rear tire delaminated. That means it got all wobbly and herniated but didn''t actually blow out. I was able to pull off the freeway and into a tire dealer without much trouble, where they sold me a pair of replacement tires. They put the new ones on front, rotated the old ones to tbe back, and I was on my way again.

I continued on with my journey and picked up Zach in Moab Utah for the rest of the trip back. Near Boise ID the right-rear tire blew out, this time into smithereens. I pulled to the side of the road unharmed, and Zach swapped out the shredded tire for the spare. At a tire dealer in Boise I learned that I need 6-ply commercial tires, due to the heavy weight of the vehicle (as specified in the door panel and in any computer system specifying tires for this vehicle, which the guys in Shawnee didn't bother to check.). The first two dealers I stopped at simply wouldn't sell me replacements for the 'normal" 4-ply tires currently on the van (as the dealer in Shawnee had).

Unfortunately the size I need is unusual, so they'd have to be special ordered. And I'd need a complete set of four. So, sending Zach on his way with another friend passing through town, I stayed the night at a trailer park outside of Boise waiting for four very expensive new tires that were being shipped FedEx (on my dime). It was one of the low points in all my US travels.

Since then I've been pretty OCD about my tires. I check the pressure all the time, always do a visual check, all the stuff you're supposed to do to keep the tires safe. They didn't give me any trouble on my six-week trip around the US in 2008.

And so yesterday on I-80 about an hour west of Lincoln NE, the right-rear tire blew out. All the anxiety and frustration and self-pity that I remember from the 2007 trip flooded back. For about two minutes. Then I pulled out the tire tools, changed to the spare, drove into the nearest tire shop and ordered a pair of my fancy tires (no, they don't carry 'em in York NE neither, but at least the shop covered the shipping this time). Then I checked into a motel (with AC, Wi-Fi, a kitchenette, and full breakfast included), stopped at the grocery store (for Hoegaarden beer, Marie Callendar's frozen dinner, and Ben & Jerry's ice cream) and settled in to watch cable-TV movies with Max. Not a bad evening overall :)

Later this morning I'll head back to the tire shop to have the new ones installed (fingers crossed), and then we'll head out again, no worse for the experience. I should still make it to Milwaukee sometime on the 11th.

Archeological sites in the four-corners area

If you've been following this blog you may remember that I visited several indigenous communities in Latin America where people live much as they had prior to the arrival of Europeans. I also visited Mayan and Incan (and pre-Mayan, pre-Incan) ruins and heard theories about life prior to the decline of these cultures. I realized that I'd never been to the pre-Columbian sites in the USA, and decided to make these visits during my current road trip.

Unfortunately the addition of Mad Max the Road Kitten to my travels this summer has meant that I couldn't take as much time exploring as I might have traveling solo. I couldn't leave him in the car to cook, so I had him along with me in a little cat carrier. Kittens don't thermo-regulate very well, so even when the heat wasn't too much for me, little Max panting and wilting and crying to get out. He also has the bladder of a child; he doesn't know he needs to go until he needs to go RIGHT NOW. Poor thing. So... we only took the shorter outdoor walking tours, explored the air-conditioned museums, and I made short stops on the driving tour loop around Mesa Verde. I ended up staying two nights in Santa Fe so Max could stay in the hotel room while I explored Bandelier.

Mesa Verde National Park, CO
(600 AD - 1300 AD) Ancient pueblan communities (Anasazi) lived in structures built on the mesas, in caves and alcoves in the Mesa Verde region of present-day Colorado. The park has 4500 archeological sites including 600 cliff dwellings. I only saw a few of the more easily accessible sites.

(Link to slides of Mesa Verde)

Chaco Culture National Historic Site, NM
(800 AD - 1200 AD) The structures of the Chaco people were different from the other communities in the region, generally constructed in giannt D-shaped walled communities that appeared to be planed from the beginning rather than haphazardly evolved over time. The Chaco were unique in the region with evidence of widespread social structires joining far-reaching communities throughout preent-day northwestern New Mexico. Archeologists believe that in 1050 AD Chaco was the ceremonial, administrative and economic capital of the San Juan Basin, but then the culture died out or moved away shortly later.

(Link to slides of Chaco)

Bandelier National Monument, NM
(1100 AD to 1500 AD) Slightly later than the other sites I visited, the Bandelier region holds over 3000 archeological sites dated from Large villages are the found on the valley floor, with dwellings also carved into the soft canyon walls.

(Link to slides of Bandelier)

Taos Pueblo, NM
While the ancient ruins were interesting enough, I was most moved by my visit to Taos Pueblo. This UNESCO World Heritage site is the oldest continuously inhabited community in the USA, with two five-story adobe structures that are 1000 years old. The Taos people are very protective of their religion and culture, but invite tourists in to guided tours in portions of the ancient pueblo. With no electricity or running water, the villagers use propane or wood for cooking and heat, and drink from the clean river that runs through the pueblo. Only a few hundred people live within the ancient pueblo walls and the remainder of the 2800 community members live primarily within a 3-mile radius of the pueblo. This is the only example I've seen in the USA where a culture has been preserved through Spanish and American colonization and settlement. This very proud community has earned my respect, and I'm encouraged to learn that such spirit has survived.
(Link to slides of Taos Pueblo)

RECAP
2 July
- Arcosanti, Cordes Junction, AZ (guest accomodations)
3 July
- Mesa Verde Natl Park CO(camping)
4 July
- Chaco Culture Natl Historic Park NM
- Farmington NM (camping)
5-6 July
- Santa Fe Motel & Inn (2 nights hotel)
- Bandelier Natl Monument
7 July
- Taos Pueblo, NM
- Eagle Creek CO (camping)

NEXT UP (subject to change)
- Colorado Springs CO
- Milwaukee WI
- Minneapolis MN

Surviving Arcosanti

This road trip will include visits to many of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in the USA, so that I can look for similarities between cultures that developed in North America compared to those I learned about in central and South America. (More about this in a later post.) One aspect of indigenous life in the Americas is a community and living structure that is more in harmony with nature. Arcosanti is a 1970s-era experiment in ecologically responsible living, and seemed like a logical first stop on my way to the Anasazi ruins in the Four Corners region. Besides, it's only an hour north of Phoenix.

"Arcology is a term coined by Paolo Soleri to describe the concept of architecture and ecology working together as one integral process to produce urban habitats. Arcosanti... is a Soleri-designed prototype arcology under construction that, when completed will house 5000 people by combining compact urban structure with large-scale solar greenhouses on 25 acres of a 4000 acre preserve."

Arcosanti hosts music festivals, sells Soleri-designed wind bells, and offers seminars, conferences and workshops for students and professionals interested in Arcology. During a tour ($10 donation) we watched a bronze pour in the bell-making smelter area, and learned about the history and future plans for the site.

It seems like a great Utopian ideal, but I have the sense that Soleri's ideas have been expanded upon by later visionaries incorporating newer materials for a more efficient and livable community. How many people really want to live in the desert in spartan 8'x8'x8' cement cubes with shared utilities and no air-conditioning? Nonetheless, the community has ~100 full-time residents devoted to the dream and new people continuously revolving through their residential programs. I met a cute 9-year-old named Angela who moved there with her father in June; s she told me they would be living on site "for 10 years, maybe longer. Daddy is here working on the heat tunnel." The guide said the place can't really take off and become a viable community until they have ~250 permanent residents. That will provide sufficient population for a school retail stores, and the other services that make a town into a town. After nearly 40 years, I wonder if that will ever happen. My overall impression of the place is a colony of artisans carrying out a 40-year-old experiment that should have ended 20 years ago.

Rather than breeze through in a hurry I decided to take my time with the visit and checked into their inexpensive no-frills guest accommodations for the night. For $30 I had a bedroom (shared bath, no air conditioning) with an amazing view of the valley. After a yummy buffet dinner in the communal cafe ($8.95) Max and I explored the grounds a bit and returned to the room just after dark in time to enjoy a spectacular thunder-and-lightening storm that blew through the valley. I can't remember the last time I saw a proper thunderstorm. It was GREAT. And Max was mesmerized by the whole experience. He's fearless!

(Link to slides of Arcosanti)

At around 2:30 AM, I woke up with this thing on my head. According to my Facebook research assistants, it's a giant black-headed centipede (Scolopendra heros arizonensis). It crawled over my neck into the hair over my ear. At first I thought my kitten was being snuggly, but then Max pounced on my head to "save me" from the critter. Not knowing at the time what the thing was, I separated Max from his new toy, snapped a few photos and removed the nine-inch (?) beast from my room. Ewwwwww. My creep-out sensors are still on alert after several days. A stray hair on my arm makes me twitch, and any time I see Max wresting with one of his toys or chasing his tail I first assume it's another giant bug. Especially when he's wrestling with... whatever... on the bed next to me at night.

Traveling with Max: Pacific Coast and Phoenix

I soooo enjoy being back out on the road! A month in Seattle hanging out with Keith-n-Sarah and getting to know Savas was a ton of fun, but after five weeks I was getting restless to continue on my journey. Here's the first post of what may become another six-week roadtrip.

Max in the Van

Traveling with a kitten is certainly a new experience. I need to stop every few hours for play-time to keep him engaged and happy. (Admittedly I don't mind the play breaks!) The van is kitten-configured: a covered litter box is on the floor in front of the passenger seat; a large soft-sided carrier is on the seat, generally unzipped for free access; and a custom "cat shelf" of 1/2 plywood rests between the dashboard and passenger seat-back, affixed with Velcro and clothesline. This carpet-covered shelf gives Max a scratching surface as well as a view out the windows. It generally keeps him off the dashboard -- the only place with a better view of the road. In between the front bucket seats there's as cushiony cat bed in the air-condition stream. In the back there's a food and water dish in the door-well of the back slider, where they won't make a mess if they spill (not a problem so far).

Yes, I let him roam free in the van while I'm driving. Generally he hangs out in the large carrier on the front seat or on the counter-top behind the driver's seat. He's free to grab food or drink or use the litter box as needed, and overall seems pretty content while we're driving. If he gets restless and needs to play, we just pull into a rest stop for a break. I've been getting him out for a bit of exploration on his harness most days, which he seems to REALLY enjoy. I'm becoming convinced that you can train a cat to do pretty much anything a dog can do. Cats are far more portable than most people believe.

Fearless Max and our new dog friends

We've been exploring all sorts of new places. Since I don't have a permanent home base right now, we get to stay with a bunch of different people under different circumstances. As a result, Max has been exposed to a variety of other animals -- with great results. I'm hoping for my Mad Max to be a cautious but fearless cat and so far he's exceeded my expectations.

In Salem OR we stayed with Sarah and her grandmother and two energetic young shitzu pups. (I believe this was Max's first-ever dog encounter.) At first we left him in his carrier so everyone could share their smells. He hissed and spitted and struck out (in his carrier) a bit at first, so we kept the animals separated during the visit. A few days later we stayed at Ken Lewis' place in Danville CA with three high-energy kids and an even more high energy chihuahua/terrier mix. Max was out of his carrier and roaming freely around the house with the dog, but he pretty much kept his distance. The last few days we've been staying with Donna and her dog Haley in Scottsdale AZ. After just a few skittish moments, Max discovered that a well-behaved dog can be fun to play with. They play hide-n-seek and swat-the-tail and hide-in-the-toy-basket. In another day or two I could imagine them sleeping in the same bed. They're adorable.

Non-cat-related encounters

I'm so pleased to have such great friends and family all over the country. I've been looking forward to a visit with Marina and Harry for ages, and finally getting back to San Luis Obispo for a visit makes me feel recharged and hopeful and well, just connected. The feeling is hard to describe but I am SO grateful that they are part of my family.

I'm also extremely lucky to have such a great brother. Paul drove 90 minutes to rescue me after a VERY stupid and dangerous mistake, when I ran out of gas on I-10 outside of Phoenix. Though I could have phoned the auto service, Paul and Donna drove into the night to meet me at a rest stop with a gas can. Then Donna -- whom I'd just met -- hosted Max and me VERY comfortably in her gorgeous new home. I couldn't have imagined a nicer welcome and I can only hope to repay the favor someday soon.

I debated about even coming to Phoenix for a visit. I left after high school graduation in 1988 and only came back for a few brief visits in the past 20 years. Due to the magic of Facebook, I've been in touch with a handful of old high-school friends recently and we arranged to connect in person over drinks while I was in town. It's amazing how little folks change after 20 years! It's been a lifetime since we last spoke, but I really enjoyed our easy conversation over a few beers even after all this time. I hope to stay connected and possibly reconnect with a few more really old friends in a future visit. I'm glad I made the stop. (Photos of these folks posted to Facebook.)

RECAP
24 June

- Depart Seattle area

- Portland OR: visit with Sue Gemmell and family (2 kids, 2 chickens, guinea pig, lizard, frog)

- Salem OR: stay the night with Sarah Willsey's grandparents (2 Shitzu puppies)

25 June

- Redwood Natl Park, CA: camping

26 June

- Danville CA: stay the night with Ken Lewis and family (3 kids, terrier/chihuahua mix)

27-29 June

- San Luis Obispo CA: visit with Marina Borgstrom/Harry Gilmore

30 June- 1 July

- Phoenix AZ: visit with brother Paul Dressel and GF Donna Wagoner (and dog Haley)

- Reunion with HS friends Lee Geller, Michele Rua, Dennis Putscher

- Lemonade with Zach's brother Jonathan Price

NEXT UP (subject to change)
- Arcosanti AZ

- Mesa Verde CO

- Chaco Valley NM

- Santa Fe NM

- Taos NM

On the road again

After more than a month in Seattle catching up with friends and exploring and relaxing and enjoying Spring, I'm finally getting out on the road again.

My new kitten has finally settled on his name -- Max (aka Mad Max, Road Warrior). He's turning out to be a great travel companion. He's harness trained, very comfortable in a car, mellow (for a kitten), brave and social. I think we'll do just fine.

We set out today in the Eurovan for lunch with Sue in Portland, an evening with Sarah and her grandmother in Salem, then tomorrow heading for Redwood National Park in northern California. From there we'll make a stop near San Francisco to visit Ken, then down to San Luis Obispo to spend a few days with Penny and Harry.

Beyond that the itinerary is still pretty fluid... but we're planning to be our around six weeks before our next big transition. I'm eager to get out there again!

Contact info update

as of June 2009

The usual info

Mobile phone: (206) 930-0213

Postal address: 24 Roy St #297, Seattle WA 98109

Email: susanborgstrom@gmail.com

Web content

Blogger: http://susanborgstrom.blogspot.com/

Twitter: http://twitter.com/susanborgstrom

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/susanborgstrom

LinkedIn: http://www.linkedin.com/in/susanborgstrom

Kitten!!! and a travel update

Hi everyone! I'd like to introduce you to my new kitten! He came "home" from the animal shelter with me yesterday. Ain't he just the cutest thing..? He'll be joining me on my upcoming adventures and then we'll settle someplace cozy in the Fall. We're still working out his name, but he's answering to Natal (nay-TALL) at the moment. (It's geeky, I know, but the way he jumps around really looks like he's playing the video game.)

But let me back up and fill in the last few weeks since I left Peru. It's gone VERY quickly!

It's been nearly a month since I returned to Seattle and I've had quite a bit to process in that time. A bit of free time and reflection made it clear that I had to step away from a series of actions that would lead me to Columbus (and Zach). So... no more plans for a trip to Zach's family cottage on the coast of Maine, and no more plans to relocate to Columbus OH. I'm just taking things day by day and once again I'm searching for my path. My journey continues in unexpected directions. I have a pretty good idea that we'll be back in Seattle before too long.

My journey continues

The great thing about being unemployed and homeless (with a bit of savings in the bank) is that I can do pretty much anything I want. Last week I was able to join friends Denise and John at their time-share condo in Whistler BC. My 1996 BMW R850R motorcycle desperately needed some exercise and I eagerly obliged, making the 175 mile trip in just over four speedy hours. A few days walking in the woods, lounging by the pool, exploring the Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Center made for an awesome trip.

Other than spending time in Whistler, I've been fortunate to have friends with extra living space in Seattle. It's great to have good friends :) Splitting time between the comfy blue sofa at Keith & Sarah's apartment in Redmond and hanging out with new friend Savas in the Interbay area near Queen Anne, I've been living rather comfortably. Both households have indulged my love for cooking and let me share my recent travel experiences through food. I thoroughly appreciate having some choice again over what I eat. While volunteeering with GVI most food was provided, but that meant we ate whatever was our home-stay family ate; sometimes great food, sometimes not so great. Now I can plan, shop for and prepare whatever I feel like. It is SOOO liberating!

Who's Savas..?

After a virtual introduction by mutual friend Lee Dirks about six months ago, we followed each other's blogs and finally met in person a few weeks ago. Armed with Lee's over-the-top character reference I couldn't possibly have concerns about spending time with Savas, and so far we're getting along really well. He's introduced me to dancing (everything from Salsa to disco funk -- why did I wait 39 years to start dancing!?), some great restaurants in town, and his warm circle of friends. It's great to have another motorcycle-riding friend in town. And most importantly he's been a willing accomplice in liberating Natal from the animal shelter!!

What's next?

In another week or two I'll have a better idea whether Natal (..?) will be happy traveling in the camper. So far everything looks good, but if not these plans will change:

At the moment I'm planning to head south towards San Luis Obispo to visit Penny sometime before the end of June, then work my way toward Milwaukee by July 12 to visit with my mom and brother Paul, then to Minneapolis by July 18 for the Dressel family reunion. It's possible that I'll make it all the way down to Phoenix before heading to Milwaukee (depending on the cat, the van's air conditioning and the weather). I'm planning to connect with friends and family all along the route.

Other than the dates and locations mentioned above EVERYTHING about my summer is flexible. If you're looking for visit from a crazy camper cat lady, drop me a line. I'll be looking for a hot shower from time to time. Sleepover invitations are always welcome!

Culture shock - Part 1

Yes, I'm back in the USA. I have a few hours' layover in Newark before my flight to Seattle this afternoon. I'm pretty excited to be back, but it's going to take some acclimatization!

For dinner last night in Lima I had an amazing 3-course meal plus beverage for $22. Included was a generous vegetable salad with greens, beets, radishes, carrot and avocado; a lovely rich chicken curry with rice, potatoes and vegetables; apple pie for dessert and a choice of wine or soda. Surprisingly, this was at the AIRPORT... for only $22!

Here's the culture shock part: two days ago I had nearly exactly the same meal in Miraflores, an upscale suburb of Lima, for only $2. Yes, that's right. The airport version was a full 10x more expensive than the typical fixed-menu mid-day meal in upper-middle-class Peru. For the last several days in Peru I could enjoy a wide assortment of meals for around 6 Soles (3 Soles to the US dollar). In the smaller communities like Chivay, you can eat rather well for 3 Soles.

Now that I'm back in the USA, I will have to adjust to the cost of food... I realize that. I'll also have to adjust to the quality of food. For the last 6 months I have been eating primarily fresh, locally-produced food prepared from scratch each day without additives or preservatives or any of the crap normally found in commercially-prepared food in the US. I was extremely fortunate that I rarely had stomach troubles in Latin America; in fact I've felt pretty amazing most of the time. I fear that the reintroduction of artificial crap into my diet will do terrible things. I may have to delay the crap-ness by re-learning how to cook, and making some of those amazing made-from-scratch dishes I discovered down south :)

Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

Last weekend we began our final Latin American adventure with a trek along part of the Inca Trail to the iconic Machu Picchu ruins. An overnight bus from Arequipa to Cusco, then a day's drove to Santa Theresa, stopping along the way for photo opportunities at lesser-known archeological sites. A quick soak at Santa Theresa's hot springs recharged us for the following day's 6-hour trek. Admittedly this was the easiest trek I could imagine, along a mostly-level well-marked path in the morning, and then along the train tracks all afternoon. By early evening we arrived at the town of Agua Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu mountain. The town reminded me of a ski resort int he summertime. It could be Whistler or Banff or probably anyplace in the world where wealthy tourists gather to see the sights in the mountains.

I have to admit that after all these months of travel I feel a bit numb to all the mountains and the historic sites. Sillustani had been so magical for me that I was wasn't even especially excited about Machu Picchu. Fortunately I was surprised at the end of the trail!

Machu Picchu. Constructed at 8000 ft over 100 yrs from AD 1430 to AD 1530 and abandoned during the Spanish conquest of Peru. Some hsitorians claim the site was never discovered by the Spanish and unknown to westerners until 1911 (locals dispute this notion).

Like everyone else who visits the place, I was amazed by both the stonework and the spectacular scenery. The only thing that tarnished my visit was the throng of other tourists. Sillustani was amazing because it was relative quiet and empty, and I felt that I could really connect with the place on its own. At Machu Picchu we were constantly shoulder-to-shoulder with crowds and tour groups, making it difficult to stop and breathe and see and really feel the place. Perhaps one day I'll get back to enjoy it again with a slightly different perspective. Nonetheless -- YES -- it is an amazing place to see; worth every step!


(Link to slides)

If you go
May is a good time to go for the best weather. Bring your passport, rain jacket, a day pack no larger than 20 litres, water and snacks. You can't eat inside the park, but bring the water and snacks anyway to avoid paying 5x inflated prices. Don't bring walking sticks, packs larger than 20 litres, or professional-looking camera equipment (you'll be required to leave them in storage outside of the park).

Take the bus from Agua Calientes up to the top (US$7), and save your energy for the hike up Huayna Picchu. Buy your bus tickets the day before, and get in line by 5AM for the first bus at 5:30AM. Once inside, move quickly across the park to the Huayna Picchu entry gate for your free ticket. Only 400 people per day are permitted to climb the nearby highpoint overlooking Machu Picchu, and it is absolutely worth it. The offer 2 entry times, 7AM and 10 AM. Ask for the 10AM entry to for better photo-taking light. Plan for a tour (if you want one) prior to your climb up Huayna Picchu. Since it can be foggy in the morning, leave time in the afternoon to explore the main ruins in good light for better photos. At the end of your visit, don't bother with the return bus to Agua Calientes; you can walk down in around half hour.

Puno and Lake Titicaca

The most magical places are often discovered after unexpected journeys. Sillustani near Lake Titicaca was such a place for me. I hadn't been planning to travel to Puno, but with a tiny bit of encouragement from Carmen and Tristan, and an unexpected 5-day weekend to fill... we found ourselves at the end of a 5-hour bus ride tucked into a little hostel in the touristy town of Puno, on the coast of Lake Titicaca in the southeast corner of Peru.

Other than exploring the town's artisanal vendors and buying WAY too many handcrafted souvenirs, I couldn't help but enjoy the city's renovated waterfront and many restaurants and bars. And of course there was the lake itself...

A few hours boatride from Puno is the island Taquile, formerly a Spanish colonial prison and owned by the Taquile indigenous people since 1970. Known for their woolen textiles and handcrafts, we had the honor of sharing the boat with a Taquile gentleman knitting a gorgeous multicolored hat. On the island we enjoyed gorgeous views of the water and nice traditional meal of fried trout. We convinced the restaurant to sell us a pair of their simple ceramic teacups, which I'm sure I will enjoy for a very long time.

Much closer to the Puno shore are several man-made floating islands made of reeds, inhabited by the pre-Incan Uros. Today only a few hundred Uros live on the islands, primarily in response to tourist demand.

As I mentioned, most memorable excursion during our Lake Titicaca adventure was to Sillustani. The pre-Incan burial ground at Lake Umayo is scattered with chullpas, or burial towers, left over from the Colla civilization who were conquered by the Incas in the 15th century. I found the site abslutely magical... and capatured some of my favorite photos from the entire 6-month trip. On the bus trip back from Sillustani we also stopped at a quaint indegenous farmstead (clearly set up for tourist visits), where the mother-daughter team shared their hospitality with hot potatoes, fresh cheese and a few great photo opportunities.

(Link to slides)

Update regarding Peruvian strikes

Several people have asked about the impact of the Peruvian strikes on the last week of my travels in South America. At this point, as long as we stay in or near Lima I don't believe we'll see ANY trouble at all. At the moment we're tucked into a backpacker's hostel in the affluent beach-front Lima suburb of Milflores. It will be an expensive several days, but I don't think we'll be suffering.

Here's an article about the strikes, if anyone wants more info.

Travel update

My flight back to Seattle is less than a week away, on Monday May 18. It is difficult to believe that this crazy Latin American adventure is wrapping up, but I´m looking forward to heading home. Home: what an interesting idea. I have no place to live and no job to get back to, only friends and family to visit, and a series of decisions to make about what comes next. Before worrying too much about that, I still have another week here in Perú...

Our final week in Perú was supposed to include a trek to Machu Picchu, flight over the Nasca Lines, boat trip to the Islas Ballestas and visit to the Paracas Natural Reserve. Machu Picchu was... amazing (look for another post about that later.) Unfortunately the rest of our scheduled adventures will not be possible due to a series of strikes in Perú affecting overland travel. Tonight we´re back in Cusco, tomorrow we´ll try to fly to Lima and possibly stay there until our respective flights leave for home this weekend. I´m not entirely sure what we´ll do in Lima for 5 days, but we´re a resourceful bunch :)

I´ve posted a brief update to my itinerary. In summary, I plan to stay in Seattle for a few weeks to catch up with friends, then head out in my VW camper toward Maine by way of San Luis Obispo CA, possibly Austin TX, and Columbus OH. South Bristol ME will likely be my base camp for a series of shorter trips through northeastern US and Canada, and I´ll stop back in Minneapolis in mid-July for my family´s annual reunion. If you´re in Seattle, I´ll try to connect with you in the last part of May. I hope you´ll be around!! If you´re anywhere else in the country, there´s a good chance I´ll drop in to see you sometime in June or July while I´m traveling around in my camper. Sofas or spare bedrooms and hot showers will be most welcomed!

Looking forward to seeing my family and friends...

Itinerary Update (as of May 12, 2009)

Update on May 12, 2009
Revision to final week in Perú, return date to Seattle, and speculation about the summer. Updates in red.
---------------
October 2008
Seattle, WA, USA
Packing and shutting down my Seattle apartment and moving everything into storage.

Oct 30 - Nov 8, 2008 (1 week)
Amsterdam and 'S-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands
Visiting with Zach and Matt at the European Ceramic Work Center, and sight-seeing.

Nov 8 - Nov 15, 2008
Williamsburg, VA, USA
Visit with Matt and Meg & Kevin (aka Betsy & John) in Colonial Williamsburg. Staying at the Hartwell Perry Tavern, built in 1744.

Nov 15 - Dec 27, 2008 (six weeks)
Antigua, Guatemala
Living with a host family in Antigua, studying Spanish, traveling weekdays to teach in a village about 40 minutes from town. In the final week, we'll build two energy-efficient stoves for families in the village.

Side trips: A weekend adventure trip to Lake Atitlan with mountain biking, flat-water kayaking, and hiking.

Dec 27, 2008 - Feb 7, 2009 (six weeks)
Copan, Honduras
Living with a host family in Copan, traveling weekdays to teach in a village about 20 minutes from town.

Side trips: Day trips to the Mayan ruins in Copan, hot springs, Macaw Mountain bird park, horseback riding, and a trek in the surrounding hills.

Feb 7 - Feb 14, 2009 (1 week)
Esteli, Nicaragua
Living with a host family in Esteli, traveling weekdays teach and to help build an energy-efficient stove in a nearby village.

Feb 14 - March 28, 2009
Imbaya, Otavalo, Ecuador
Living with a host family in Otovalo, traveling weekdays to teach in a village about an hour from town.

Side trips: A weekend adventure trip to Mindo including whitewater rafting, zip-lining over the cloud forest, and a visit to nature preserves. A day trip of trekking and horseback riding to Taxopumba for a swim at the base of a waterfall.

March 28 - May 18, 2009
Arequipa, Perú
Living at the Casa de Avila in Arequipa, traveling weekdays to teach in a nearby pueblo joven called Maldonado.

Side trips: A 3-day excursion to Colca Canyon, a horse riding excursion, a half-day of mountain biking, and a final adventure week trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, NOT visiting the Nazca Lines, possibly no boat ride to the famous Islas Ballestas, and possibly no a visit to the Reserva Natural de Paracas before heading back to Lima for a flight to Seattle, arriving May 18 in the evening.

May 19 - early June, 2009
Seattle, WA
Catching up with friends in Seattle; staying with Keith and Sarah to begin with.

June - September, 2009
USA
Another roadtrip in my VW Eurovan, beginning south towards San Luis Obispo CA, with a flexible itinerary winding through Columbus OH to pick up Zach and then up to South Bristol ME for a few months. The last part of the summer will likely include a series of shorter trips through northeastern US and Canada, and a trip to Minneapolis in mid-July for the Dressel Family Reunion.

Birthday in Sachaca

Just a quick note to capture a crazy day at school.

Every month GVI hosts a birthday celebration for all the kids who had a birthday in the past month. There's cake and fancy fruit salad for everyone, and the birthday kids each get a gift. Today was our "cumpleanos" celebration. It just happens that my birthday is May 7, and somehow the teachers at our school knew about it. And so after the kids were honored, I was called up to blow out a candle in the cake as well. Moments later, I had icing up my nostrils and cake gleefully smashed into my face by both of our teachers.

Shortly thereafter, the teachers sat me down and smashed several raw eggs on the top of my head, really grinding the shells into my hair. And giggling, I think.

It's for luck, they said :j

I can honestly say it's the most unusual birthday celebration I've ever had.

Adventures near Arequipa, Perú

We've been on a handful of weekend "adventure" trips not too far from my current home-base in Arequipa. This post covers everything prior to the May 7 - 15 adventure week coming up at the end of my GVI journey.

Mountain biking down Chachani. On our first Saturday in Peru, I went with Aaron, Maya and Aviv to a nearby mountain called Chachani and rode bicycles down mostly dirt tracks from 4875 M to the city at 2600 M; over 50 KM. The scenery was spectacular. I had a fantastic time riding VERY fast downhill. I picked up a few bumps and bruises along the way, but that's to be expected. Maya and Aviv gave up the struggle early on, put their bikes back on the van and rode the rest of the way down with the bikes on top of the van. Crazy chicas :) Once we got back onto pavement, I rode in front of Aaron and the guide. The road was twisty and smooth and made me wish I had my motorcycle. The guide said we were traveling at 50 KPH most of the way. It was GREAT!

(Link to pics from the Chachani bike trip)

Trekking in Colca Canyon. This 3-day trip took me and 16 other "voluntourists" and our 2 guides all the way down into the largest canyon in the world, then back up again. Our giant group walked most of the way down the first day and slept at a little rustic hostel. In the morning we trekked all the way down for lunch at a little oasis near the river, then the group hiked the way back up 1000 M for a night in Cabanaconde. I hired a mule for the ride back up to the top (well, why not..?) while the others slogged up in the rain. On the third day we goofed around Cabanaconde for a bit before heading to Chivay for a huge buffet lunch, then took the bus back to Arequipa. One highlight from the trip was a peek at some wild condors circling in the valley. (I saw a few up close at the Condor Park in Otavalo.)

This was the most "guided tour"-feeling weekend in all my time with GVI. Because the group was so huge, it was a little hard for me to enjoy the trip (aside from all the rain, I suppose.) Yes, the canyon was gorgeous. The trek wasn't really difficult. The hostels were comfortable. Nonetheless the trip was primarily centered on waiting for others or catching up with others, and it was tough to "be in the moment." Some of the pictures turned out nice, though...

(Link to pics from Colca Canyon trip)

Scenic drive to Salinas Lagoon. Last weekend we took a day-trip to Salinas Lagoon, a salt/borax lake at 4000 M and home to flamingos and other wildlife. The weather was perfect and the views along the very bumpy off-road drive were spectacular. We visited a handful of quaint little pueblos along the way and stopped several times for photos. My highlight for this trip was a visit to a llama farm, where we were followed around by some very tame young llamas out in their pasture.

(Link to pics from Salinas Lagoon trip)

NEXT: More about the GVI school at Sachaca.

Arequipa, Perú: First Impressions

I'm now enjoying the last country of my six-month Global Vision International (GVI) tour of Latin America. Arequipa, Perú is the furthest south I've even been. We're at an altitude of 2600 M, a little lower than my previous stay in Otavalo Ecuador. Unlike my other homestays, this time I'll be living in a hotel room at Casa de Avila during my six-week stay in town. I take my meals at the hotel, and also have access to the house kitchen to prepare my own food if I choose. The Casa is central to all GVI activities in Arequipa; the Project Manager Carla lives here as well, our spanish lessons are held in the courtyard, the GVI room (for supplies and lesson planning) is here, and all the other volunteers meet here for a ride up to the communities each morning. It's a very comfortable and convenient place to live. There's even a giant tortoise to keep us company in the courtyard.

(Link to pics of the hotel and around town)

Aaron, Maya, Aviv and I spent our first week here in Spanish lessons and then the others left for Chivay, where they will work for the rest of their time in Perú. I've opted to remain in Arequipa and work at a community near town called Sachaca. GVI supports two schools in that community; I'm working at the one called Maldonado. (More about the school i n a later post.) Our foursome will be reunited for each of our adventure trips, including the final week with Machu Pichu and the Nazca lines. Though we're working in different cities for now, it isn't "good-bye" for us quite yet.

We had an opportunity to explore a bit around town before beginning work up at the schools. The most interesting sight so far was the Santa Catalina convent. Founded in 1579, the convent has been home to cloistered nuns continuously through its 430-year history, including 25 who live there today. This "city within a city" was restored in the mid-20th century and portions were opened to the public in 1970. Entrance to the convent is ~$10/US, plus an optional additional ~$10/US for a bilingual guide. Plan for at least 2 hours. www.santacatalina.org.pe

(Link to pics of the convent)

COMING SOON: Chachani bike trip, Colca Canyon trip, and more about the GVI school at Sachaca.

Exploring Otavalo: A Bit Further from Town

Part 3 of 3

Fuya Fuya and Lagunas de Mojanda

One of our first adventures outside of Otavalo was to climb Mt. Fuya Fuya (4263 m), which means "cloudy cloudy." Eleven of us headed out for a guided day trip to the top of this nearby mountain, considered a "starter" mountain for those interested in scaling the higher nearby peaks such as Imbabaya or Cotapaxi. After a bit of difficulty locating the traihead, we trekked up the grassy hills to the more exposed rockface above. I could certainly feel the altitude as we approached the top, huffing a bit and resting from time to time... but all in all it was not a difficult climb. We enjoyed lunch provided by the guide service at the top, but due to the clouds couldn't really see much at the summit. On a clear day, they tell us, we should be able to see three lakes from the summit. The clouds cleared a bit on the way down for some great pictures, so we weren't too disappointed. The path was so steep that Aaron, Troy and Aviv decided to roll down the hill a few times... much to the amusement of the others. While we climbed to the summit, Zoe enjoyed a guided hike partway around the largest lake at Mojanda, below. She reported that the hike was spectacular and the conversation with her guide both educational and interesting. We used Ecomontes Tour guide service for the trip, next to the Peanut shop, on Sucre. www.ecomontestour.com

(Photos)

Laguna de Cuicocha (Cuicocha Crater Lake)

During my stay in Otavalo, we'd seen rain (sometimes HARD rain) pretty much every afternoon. Any adventure out of town meant a risk of rain. Feeling optimistic, we ventured out mid-morning for a hike around Lago de Cuicocha. After 30 minutes by bus and another 15 minutes by taxi we arrived at the lake, which is near the entrance of a large ecological preserve. This crater lake tops an active volcano (3068 m) and has two little islands in the center where the mountain continues to grow. It's possible to climb to the rim of the crater and hike completely around the lake in about five hours. When we arrived, we hired a boat for a quick spin around the islands, and then checked out the little ecological museum so I could understand the geology of the lake. By early afternoon, the weather looked a little too dubious for a full circumnavigation of the lake. We hiked a bit, then headed back towards town for a late lunch. NOTE: If you take a taxi up to the lake, arrange for another to pick you up later. We didn't, and ended up walking a few miles down the road before hitching a ride in the back of a truck to get back to town. If I go another time, I'd plan for a hike around the lake (time permitting). Considering the time of day and the weather, however, the time we spent exploring was just about perfect!


Agua Calientes a Chichambiro
I was invited to join Zoe and her host family on a trip to the hot springs at Chichambiro. We rode for an hour in the back of a pickup truck through the most amazing countryside. I was reminded of my Honduran trip to the hotsprings, also through amazing landscape. This time, because we were riding outside in the bed of a pickup we were able to see even more. The ride was breathtaking!




We arrived at a fantastical water park filled with kids and families enjoying a dragon-shaped water slide, tiny zip-line and rope swings in a giant pool. Zoe and I opted for the extra $3 entry fee for the adjacent "medicinal" pools slightly futher up the hill. There we found equally fantastic concrete decoration surrounding a collection of pools of different temperatures, plus turcos (saunas), naturally hot showers, and cooling pools. I especially enjoyed the cave-like turcos, which smelled of eucalyptus and other herbs. In all, the pools were extremely relaxing, and at the upper pools, not especially crowded. www.chachimbiro.com




Before we left the family shared fresh hot cheese-filled empanadas from the little tiendas at the pools. On the return trip we stopped at the timy hometown of Zoe's host mom, and enjoyed a fruit named chirimoya, kinds of like a soursop; very yummy. (Note: Don't be too afraid of street food when traveling or you'll miss out of some great treats!) Again from the back of the truck we experienced the most amazing sunset, then suffered a bit through a chilly nightfall and a bit of rain. The delightful sunset far outweighed the tiny inconvenience of rain and cold.



NEXT: On to Peru...

Exloring Otavalo: Nearby Adventures

Part 2 of 3

El LecheroEast of town between Otavalo and Laguna de San Pablo, at the top of a steep hill in a grassy clearing there lives an old tree called "El Lechero". Legend says that if you approach the tree with sincerity and give it a hug and a kiss, the tree will grant a wish. In addition to giving out wishes, the tree also provides a "buena vista" of the surrounding area, including the lovely Lago San Pablo below. When I climbed up to the tree with Carol, Tracy and Sophie I think we took a somewhat unconventional (steep and muddy) route to the top, but I've seen others deposited at the top by taxi. I think it's a better adventure to search on foot and if we could do it, anyone can.

(Photos)

Parque Condor
Carol and I continued on foot to Parque Condor after visiting El Lechero. Parque Condor is run by a foundation dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of birds of prey native to the Andes. We arrived just before 11 AM for a walk around the park, which turned out to be perfect timing. After a stroll through the gounds looking at all the captive giant birds, we arrived at the condors. The enormous pair of birds was enthusiastically chasing each other around the huge enclosure, affording us some great photo opportunities. We were in the amphitheater by 11:30, in time for the flight demonstration led by a pair of guides. We learned about and watched half-dozen different birds of prey flying over the valley and back to the guides... an awesome spectacle well worth the trip. Sure, it was a little depressing to see all the caged birds (I feel the same about al zoos.) However, the guides explained that all these birds were rescued from injury in the wild or abandonment by prior owners. If they can be re-introduced to the wild, they are. They all certainly seemed well-kept. The $3 donation seemed like a fair price for such an experience. Open Tuesday through Sunday and public holidays. (Link to Parque Condor)

Laguna de San Pablo y La Cascada de Peguche
A short bus-ride from town is the lovely Laguna de San Pablo, which we used as a starting point for a lovely walk along the river to la Cascada de Peguche. I was very fortunate to have a local guide and friend, Edwin, show me the trail. Along the way I heard many stories about his childhood and family from the area, and he pointed out many hidden treasures that I could never have found on my own, such as natural springs bubbling mysteriously out of little caves or grassy mounds near the waterfalls. At the waterfall, be sure to climb the stairs at the right side of the falls and crawl through the little man-made cave at the top of the steps. Kick off your shoes, roll up your jeans and hop into the stream at the top and continue upstream around a bend in the rock... and you'll encounter another wonderful waterfall out of sight to the right. It's well worth getting your feet wet! On a prior trip to Peguche with Zoe, we stopped before returning to town at a little tienda (shop/bar) for a beer and great sunset view of the city, surrounded by mountains and birds and purple-orange clouds. It was delightful. Thanks to both Zoe and Edwin for making Peguche so memorable!

(Photos)

La Cruz y Socavan
To the east of town you'll see a hill with a giant cross. In the late afternoon, it's well worth a short walk up the hill to sit at the base of the cross and watch the city unwind. On a clear day the view is amazing, surrounded by volcanoes with the city spread below. (For those familiar with Otavalo... you'll
undoubtedly hear the garbage truck somewhere below.) Just below and slightly to the north of the giant cross is another religious icon of the town that's worth a visit. Tucked into the hillside near the piscinas (pools) of Barrio San Francisco is a little cave with a shrine in a pool of water behind an old metal gate. I tossed a coin through the gate into the pool (as instructed) and hope my wish comes true.

Exploring Otavalo, Part 1 of 3: In Town

Now that I've arrived safely in Arequipa, Peru it is well past time that I posted about all the amazing places I explored near Otavalo, Ecuador. Otavalo has plenty to do and see, and I'll recount it in three parts.

This is part 1 of 3: In Town

SHOPPING
Artisan Market. One of the primary tourist attractions in Otavalo is the astonishingly large open market. Bright colors seems to be the recurring theme. If you're looking for brightly-colored tapestries or any variety of clothing, handbags, hammocks or household accessories made from the same tapestries, you'll be in heaven here. Beaded jewelry is also prevalent, and silver with coral, turquoise and other embedded stones. Cotton and wool weavings, bright paintings, mass-produced touristy carvings, and of course ponchos are always available. During the week, the market is large but manageable in a few hours of browsing. The Saturday market swells to fill most of the north end of the city, with products from throughout South America. The prices are a bit higher on Saturdays because the throngs of tourists fill the plaza on the weekends.


Farmers Market. In addition to the enormous artisanal market, slightly to the southwest you'll find Otavalo's farmers market substantial and well worth browsing. Though you could purchase daily necessities from the large supermarkets around town, the food is fresher and less expensive at the farmers market. With the other GVI volunteers I made several trips to the market to purchase fruits, vegetables and meat for our schools.

DINING
Because most of our meals were provided by our host families, We generally only visited restaurants for snacks, coffee and drinks. Occasionally, all the volunteers would gather at a restaurant for a going-away party as well. Some favorite places:

Deli Cafe-Restaurant. I love this place. At the corner of Bolivar and Quiroga, this quasi-Mexican restaurant has good food and a nice coffee-shop feel, and the coffee is the best in all of Otavalo (real espresso served strong!) But the most important characteristic of this shop is the amazingly friendly owner, Yolanda. She also has a room for rent above the restaurant, and her son has two additional rooms in Quito. If I ever return to Otavalo for any length of time, I will try to arrange a stay with her. www.delicaferestaurant.com

The Sanduche Shop. It's not the real name for the place, but that's what is is listed as on the GVI volunteer map, and that's what we called it. On Bolivar between Salinas and Morales, this little shop has enormous sandwiches, nice little pizzas, local breakfasts, a deli counter full of cheese, and shelves full of imported goods. And chocolate! In this miraculous little place we could buy gold-foil wrapped perfection one bite at a time. Or for $0.40, about three bites worth depending of the size of your bite. Yum.

Shenandoah, or the Pie shop. On the south end of Plaza de Los Ponchos you'll find a row of shops and restaurants targeting tourists. The GVI crowd meets at the Pie Shop for, you guessed it, pie, every Sunday night to welcome new volunteers. The project manager Tracy makes a little speech and everyone introduces themselves... and we gorge on $1 slices of chocolate, strawberry, babaco or other fruity pies made fresh each day in the back of the shop. There's also ice cream but everyone comes in for the pie.

Buena Vista. Also on the south end of the Plaza de Los Ponchos, this tourist-friendly (and somewhat expensive) restaurant has a great balcony view of the Plaza. Don't bother with the sandwiches but the nachos are amazing. I often sat on the balcony with a cup of tea in the afternoon to do my Spanish homework or plan lessons for school. Its comfortable, if you don't mind the price tag.

Sahara. This great little home-town place is a chill 2nd-floor bar that only serves beer, and the seating is either at the bar or at pillows on the floor around little candle-lit tables. I didn't see any other tourists; just locals. My kinda place. It's on Bolivar a few blocks south of Parque Bolivar.

NEXT: Nearby Adventures