Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

Last weekend we began our final Latin American adventure with a trek along part of the Inca Trail to the iconic Machu Picchu ruins. An overnight bus from Arequipa to Cusco, then a day's drove to Santa Theresa, stopping along the way for photo opportunities at lesser-known archeological sites. A quick soak at Santa Theresa's hot springs recharged us for the following day's 6-hour trek. Admittedly this was the easiest trek I could imagine, along a mostly-level well-marked path in the morning, and then along the train tracks all afternoon. By early evening we arrived at the town of Agua Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu mountain. The town reminded me of a ski resort int he summertime. It could be Whistler or Banff or probably anyplace in the world where wealthy tourists gather to see the sights in the mountains.

I have to admit that after all these months of travel I feel a bit numb to all the mountains and the historic sites. Sillustani had been so magical for me that I was wasn't even especially excited about Machu Picchu. Fortunately I was surprised at the end of the trail!

Machu Picchu. Constructed at 8000 ft over 100 yrs from AD 1430 to AD 1530 and abandoned during the Spanish conquest of Peru. Some hsitorians claim the site was never discovered by the Spanish and unknown to westerners until 1911 (locals dispute this notion).

Like everyone else who visits the place, I was amazed by both the stonework and the spectacular scenery. The only thing that tarnished my visit was the throng of other tourists. Sillustani was amazing because it was relative quiet and empty, and I felt that I could really connect with the place on its own. At Machu Picchu we were constantly shoulder-to-shoulder with crowds and tour groups, making it difficult to stop and breathe and see and really feel the place. Perhaps one day I'll get back to enjoy it again with a slightly different perspective. Nonetheless -- YES -- it is an amazing place to see; worth every step!


(Link to slides)

If you go
May is a good time to go for the best weather. Bring your passport, rain jacket, a day pack no larger than 20 litres, water and snacks. You can't eat inside the park, but bring the water and snacks anyway to avoid paying 5x inflated prices. Don't bring walking sticks, packs larger than 20 litres, or professional-looking camera equipment (you'll be required to leave them in storage outside of the park).

Take the bus from Agua Calientes up to the top (US$7), and save your energy for the hike up Huayna Picchu. Buy your bus tickets the day before, and get in line by 5AM for the first bus at 5:30AM. Once inside, move quickly across the park to the Huayna Picchu entry gate for your free ticket. Only 400 people per day are permitted to climb the nearby highpoint overlooking Machu Picchu, and it is absolutely worth it. The offer 2 entry times, 7AM and 10 AM. Ask for the 10AM entry to for better photo-taking light. Plan for a tour (if you want one) prior to your climb up Huayna Picchu. Since it can be foggy in the morning, leave time in the afternoon to explore the main ruins in good light for better photos. At the end of your visit, don't bother with the return bus to Agua Calientes; you can walk down in around half hour.